Volkswagen Rabbit Clutch is not working Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(89)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(89)

Clutch is not working Inspection Service

How much does a Clutch is not working Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Volkswagen Rabbit Clutch is not working Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2007 Volkswagen RabbitL5-2.5LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1983 Volkswagen RabbitL4-1.7LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2009 Volkswagen RabbitL5-2.5LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1978 Volkswagen RabbitL4-1.5L DieselService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1984 Volkswagen RabbitL4-1.6L DieselService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1980 Volkswagen RabbitL4-1.5LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1983 Volkswagen RabbitL4-1.8LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1984 Volkswagen RabbitL4-1.8LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Volkswagen Rabbit Clutch is not working Inspection prices

While most vehicles out on the road today are automatics, there are still quite a few manual transmissions cruising the streets. When it comes to a manual transmission, one of the most important components is the clutch. Clutches that are well maintained and cared for can last up to 80,000 miles but an abused clutch can start to fail after a mere 35,000 miles.

The clutch is essential to the safe operation of the vehicle and a malfunctioning clutch can quickly damage other transmission parts, which will greatly increase the cost of the repair. Clutch problems should be addressed as soon as the first signs of trouble appear.

How this system works:

The clutch system transmits engine power to the gearbox and also allows the transmission to be interrupted during gear change. The main components of the clutch system include the master cylinder, a slave cylinder, flywheel, and an operating linkage.

The majority of vehicles use a friction clutch that is operated by hydraulic fluid or a cable. A flywheel connects to the engine and the clutch plate connects to the transmission. The clutch is engaged when the pedal is not being depressed. The springs push the pressure plate against the flywheel, which locks the transmission to the engine.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch disengages. An arm pushes a release bearing against the center of the spring, which releases the clamping pressure.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Malfunctioning Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder: A clutch master cylinder has a reservoir that holds brake fluid. The master cylinder is connected to the slave cylinder via hoses. As the clutch pedal is depressed, brake fluid moves from the master cylinder to the slave, which applies pressure to engage the clutch. Both the master and slave cylinders have seals that can wear out which will cause a leak. A leak will eventually lead to a clutch malfunction. Common symptoms of a failing master or slave clutch cylinder include the clutch going all the way to the floor, not being able to shift gears and a brake fluid leak.

  • Clutch Fluid Leak: Clutch fluid is actually just brake fluid. A leak in the system will make it hard to change gears and the clutch pedal may go all the way to the floor. The may also be a puddle of brake floor on the garage floor. A fluid leak is often a symptom of a more serious problem.

  • Slipping Clutch: Clutches are designed to slip a bit when the clutch is first engaged or during gear change to provide a smooth ride but once the clutch is fully engaged there shouldn’t be any slippage. In most cases, slipping will happen while the vehicle is hauling a load or when going up a hill. Slipping can cause the clutch to get hot, which can result in burned clutch facings, which can damage the flywheel and pressure plate. Normal wear and tear is usually the cause of a slipping clutch. The problem should be addressed as soon as the first symptoms appear to avoid additional damage.

  • Chattering or Jerky Clutch: A grabby or jerky clutch is often caused by oil or grease that has gotten on the clutch linings. A warped flywheel or a loose clutch cover can also cause this problem.

  • Air in Hydraulic Line: If there is air in the hydraulic line it will take up space that the fluid needs to build the proper pressure. This can result in a sticking clutch.

  • Misadjusted linkage: The linkage that connects the pedal to the clutch system can become misadjusted. A sticking clutch is often a sign of this problem. The linkage will need to be adjusted to correct this problem.

  • Broken Clutch Cable: The clutch cable can end up stretched or broken. If this is the case the clutch will often stick. The cable will need to be replaced.

  • Clutch Will Not Release: There are many things that can cause a clutch to not release. Everything from the damaged input shaft splines to a worn bearing retainer to a bent clutch disk. A vehicle that has a clutch that will not release should be inspected as soon as possible as not repairing it will lead to further damage.

  • Hard Clutch: If the clutch feels hard or stiff there is a good chance there is a problem with the pedal linkage or the clutch cable.

What to expect:

A top-­rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the clutch issue, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How important is this service?

The clutch is integral to a smooth working transmission and even one malfunctioning part can have drastic affects on the rest of the clutch system as well as the transmission. Clutch issues should be repaired as quickly as possible.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Volkswagen mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volkswagen owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(89)

Rating Summary
86
0
2
0
1
86
0
2
0
1

James

19 years of experience
96 reviews
James
19 years of experience
Volkswagen Rabbit L5-2.5L - Brake Pads Replacement (Rear) - Phoenix, Arizona
James was top notch

Tien

23 years of experience
903 reviews
Tien
23 years of experience
Volkswagen Rabbit L5-2.5L - Crankshaft Position Sensor - Dublin, California

Thomas

12 years of experience
128 reviews
Thomas
12 years of experience
Volkswagen Rabbit L5-2.5L - Vehicle Engine Electrical - Grand Prairie, Texas
10/10!

Tagharchi

23 years of experience
81 reviews
Tagharchi
23 years of experience
Volkswagen Rabbit L4-1.6L Diesel - Alternator - Vista, California
Kevin went out of his way to get the job done which is not something that can be said for his employer. There service is not ready for mainstream!

Excellent Rating

(89)

Rating Summary
86
0
2
0
1
86
0
2
0
1
Number of Volkswagen Rabbit services completed
979+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volkswagen MECHANICS
1000+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Should I Lift Up My Wiper Blades Before a Snowstorm?
It's a good idea to lift up your car wiper blades before it snows. If you don't, you could get a burnt out window wiper motor or bent wiper arms.
P2629 OBD-II Trouble Code: O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit / Open Bank 2 Sensor 1
P2629 P2629 code definition The P2629 trouble code detects a problem with the voltage signal from the oxygen sensor pumping current trim circuit of sensor 1 in bank 2. What the P2629 code means P2629 is a standard OBD-II trouble...
P2700 OBD-II Trouble Code: Transmission Friction Element "A" Apply Time Range/Performance
P2700 means the transmission friction element application needs attention, possibly because of a leak in the transmission or defective pump.

Car is running rough 2007 Ford Explorer

Hello - first task is to check for problem codes, whether the Check Engine light is on or not. This will show "occasional errors" like the cylinder misfire you mention. A dirty idle air control valve, or throttle body, can...

Have a 2008 dodge charger the oil light keeps blink off and on does that mean I need and oil change

The oil pressure light will usually come on when a few things could be happening. Either the motor is in fact low on oil, the oil pump could be failing or the oil pressure sending unit (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/oil-pressure-sensor-replacement) is not working...

I have a 2008 ford E-350 extended passenger van, it was idling rough eventually that day shut off and wouldn't come back on.. it w

Hi Sabrina. Thanks for contacting us today. One thing to remember about OBD-II trouble codes is that they indicate the source of the code being triggered - not always the source of the problem. In this case, it's quite possible...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com