Mazda Navajo Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(4,454)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(4,454)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda Navajo Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1992 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1991 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1993 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1994 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
Show example Mazda Navajo Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mazda mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mazda owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(4,454)

Rating Summary
4,187
142
36
18
71
4,187
142
36
18
71

Jose

15 years of experience
249 reviews
Jose
15 years of experience
Mazda 5 L4-2.3L - Brakes must be pumped to work - Brandon, Florida
Excellent mechanic very thorough and honest and a pleasure to work with will be using him for all my car needs from here on out , love the piece of mind I get knowing I will not have to worry about getting ripped off for car repairs . So happy I found this company and Jose .

Keven

7 years of experience
126 reviews
Keven
7 years of experience
Mazda Protege L4-1.6L - Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection - Lakewood, Washington
Keven was very thorough and professional. He was very clear with what my car needed and gave me good advice and options. I will definitely book him for future appointments.

Fadi

20 years of experience
85 reviews
Fadi
20 years of experience
Mazda 3 L4-2.0L - Brakes must be pumped to work - San Diego, California
Did a great job

Jessica

14 years of experience
13 reviews
Jessica
14 years of experience
Mazda 3 L4-2.0L - Engine or Transmission Mount Replacement - Scottsdale, Arizona
Excellent mechanic.

Excellent Rating

(4,454)

Rating Summary
4,187
142
36
18
71
4,187
142
36
18
71
Number of Mazda services completed
48994+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mazda MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Support Bearing
Common signs include unusual noises and shuddering during acceleration.
P0579 OBD-II Trouble Code: Cruise Control Multi-Function Input A Circuit Range/Performance
P0579 P0579 OBD-II Trouble Code: Cruise Control Multi-Function Input A Circuit Range/Performance P0579 code definition The P0579 code signifies that the car’s computer has found a malfunction in the cruise control multi-function input A circuit. What the P0579 code means...
How to Replace a Starter Relay
Starter relays are faulty if there are problems starting the engine, the starter stays on after cranking, or a clicking noise comes from the starter.

Battery drained after plugging charger in lighter and now eas came on t too before battery died. Got battery may 2016

Some chargers can pull enough current to drain the battery. I recommend unplugging the charger when you turn off and exit the vehicle. Low charging system voltage can cause all kinds of warning lights to illuminate in modern vehicles, so...

cold start issues

Hi Jim. The poor cold start may be related to a faulty/dirty IAC (idle air control) valve (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/idle-control-valve-replacement) not allowing engine RPM (revolutions per minute) to increase with ambient temperatures below 30 degrees. Assuming the check engine light is on...

I have a 1997 Ford Ranger. It runs fine until I shift to 3 rd gear then its starts to stall out and i have to limp it home. It has a new fuelp pump assembly and fuel filter. At a loss right because there are no CELs. Any idea waht my issue could be or where to start looking?

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com