My 2018 explorer won't start and all the dash lights are ...

Hello there and thank you for contacting JustAnswer, sorry to hear about your car trouble, I’ll do my best to help you solve this issue, have you tried jumping it even with a new battery sometimes cars don’t get enough amps to start.

No actually. Seems like common sense but we have not tried that. We've been so worried it could be something electrical like the computer. I didn't believe it was the battery to begin with because I replaced it 7 months ago with a Aaa 6year warranty battery. And my lights haven't dimmed. Odd thing is about a week before this happened my touchscreen where radio and heat/ac controls and all that are went out. It's been completely black and now this.

Ok your car is fairly new for this to happen, is the screen still doing the same thing?

it's still completely black. The first two days it went on and would randomly come back on if I did the trick where you hold down the power button and the forward seek button but that stopped working and it hasn't come back on at all and now this. It also kept giving the warning to replace my key fob battery and then eventually the day the car wouldn't crank it said no key detected until we tried to crank it the first time and after that it didn't say it again but of course the first thing we tried was replacing the key fob battery

Ok it sounds like a drained battery problem, was AAA able to replace it or see it if taking enough charge?

I actually didn't call them yet. It was quicker to take it to oreilly auto parts. They tested it and showed me it said bad battery so I bought a new one hoping to get on the road immediately.

Were you able to start it at the parts shop?

No we just took the battery with us to oreilly. Got a new one and brought it back here and it still never cranked.It isn't even clicking like it's trying to crank like it did when first battery died

Are you able to jumpstart it with another vehicle?

I'm working on getting someone over here to try that now. If it cranks then could it just need to be jumped that first time or am I looking at an [alternator](/topics-alternator-ford/) problem?

I could be the alternator issue, but again your car is barely 2 years old.

Okay hopefully it jumps off. We will know soon.

Hopefully, keep me updated it please.

Absolutely thank you so much for your help

You bet, we’re here to help.

Update: tried jumping it off and no luck

Ok can you check the fuel pressure? It should be between 45psi and 58psi.

Someone brought something to my attention. Could my key fob have malfunctioned possibly and not be programmed to the car. I was told it has something called Securilock that is an immobilization system.

Do you get any messages on your dash about security or key not detected?

No it's showing the 4wd warning message, [engine](/topics-engine-ford/) [coolant](/topics-coolant-ford/) temperature, power train fault, service engine soon, hill descent control, abs, battery, [brake](/topics-brake-ford/) system, tire pressure, etc. cycling through all of those but still showing correct doors that are ajar and message for hood ajar. And correctly says when full accessory mode on. And it doesn't show any [mileage](/topics-mileage-ford/) on the odometer when turned on, or miles to E, miles to oil change etc.It cycles through them faster than they can hardly even be read

That is a lot of stuff going on. Do they keep repeating through a cycle.

it continues on over and over if the ignition is pushed to on. Never had any warning lights on before this though

You probably need to reprogram the PCM with dealer computer.

I should probably go ahead and have it towed in?

it’s the only you can get it there.

Okay one more question which I'm sure makes no difference. The new battery I bought is 650cca and I noticed the old one is 850. Would that make any difference?

Ok the battery has to be up to manufacturer standards, if the amps are different it will create issues. But it should start and only dashboard and controls will not light up.

Okay I just looked in owners manual and it says 650, but the battery AAA gave me that I've been running is 850.My new battery that won't crank either is 650

Can you try the 650 and see if you can jump it?

That's the one we've been trying. 850 is the one that came out of it from AAA.

Ok it’s probably not your battery.Even with low amps the car should start.

Okay and I should also mention we got a scan tool trying to use it and it isn't reading the cars vin #. I'll have to call a dealership tomorrow

It needs a dealer scanner or equivalent to connect to the module. Let them know that you can’t even get a reading with your scanner.

Hello, thank you for the question and sorry to hear you're having this issue. Have you put a load tester or multimeter on the battery to verify the battery is fully charged and capable of starting the vehicle? If the battery is found to be fully charged at 12.6 volts, the next step is to make sure that you are getting that same voltage down at the [starter](/topics-starter-ford/). Locate the starter under the vehicle and put a multimeter or a test light on the largest red wire to the starter with the ignition set to the on position and verify the full 12.6-volts to this connection. If you have the full voltage here, then you can check for the same voltage to be applied to the smaller "s" wire to the starter with an assistant setting the ignition to the start position. If you have the full power to both connections then the starter is bad. If you do not, we can start to trace back the power loss starting with the starter relay. Let's start with these simple tests and let me know what you find. Thanks!