I'm having a weird issue with something on the front left...

Hello there! Thank you for your question concerning your 2009 Avenger. Front suspension clunking can be coming from multiple points. Most common issues can be worn stabilizer end links, worn struts and/or strut mounts or a possible faulty ball joint or control arm bushing.

The thing is I replace the hub assembly and the clanking stops. There is a slight scraping sound and then I drive it for 100 miles or so in the clanking and clunking starts again. When it's just the scraping you can't hear it at high speeds and when it starts clunking and clanking it's quieter at high speeds but you can still hear it

The scraping may be the thin metal backing plate touching the [brake](/topics-brake-dodge/) rotor; especially if the rotor has any sort of rust build up on the lip. As for the clunking the vehicle need to be safely jacked up and a front end inspection performed to determine the source of the clunk - there are many variables. Are you replacing the hub/spindle unit or the hub bearing assembly? If the hub/spindle unit is it new or used?

I replaced the hub assembly three times with a new hub assembly twice with a Moog hub assembly and now with a carquest one

Ok, so it sounds like you are replacing just the hub bearing assembly. How tight did you make the axle nut? If not tight enough it may be causing premature wear of the bearing? If it is sufficiently torqued it is highly unlikely you have gotten three bad hub bearings.

Yeah I'm sure I haven't gotten three bad wheel bearings. The first two times I overturned it I would say significantly and this time I torqued it to specI also replaced the sway bar link

I would suggest checking the remainder of the front end and suspension. This requires jacking the car up safely while using jack stands. Double check that the new sway bar links are still tight. Grab the front axles and be sure there is no excessive movement there. Stick a prybar in between the hub and lower ball joint to verify there is no up and down movement, also stick the prybar between the lower control arm and frame where bushings are to be sure the bushings are not overly worn. Have someone wiggle the front wheels side to side while visually checking the tie rods for excessive wear or movement. Lastly if all checks good that would leave only the struts as the culprit. If available you can buy a quick-strut assemblies which come ready to install out of the box (you will have to have a front end alignment done after any front end work that disrupts the geometry of course). I hope these tips help you narrow down your problem - I know it is a lot of steps, but narrowing down a noise like this is process of elimination.

My question is would any of these things be temporarily remedied by replacing the wheel bearing? I'm wondering if replacing the wheel bearing is what is stopping the noise or if just jacking up the car is relieving stress off of something and temporarily getting rid of the noise. If that makes any sense to anyone other than me. Most if not all of the things that you mentioned have already been checked. My lower ball joints probably need to be replaced but if jacking up the car or replacing the hub assembly would not temporarily stop those from making noise then I don't figure that's where it's coming from.A friend of mine suggested the possibility of it being an issue with my caliper. Obviously I'm disassembling everything and at least slightly depressing the caliper when removing the brakes so it's not the craziest thing I ever heard.Something I noticed yesterday was that the top of my brake pad is worn significantly more than the bottom

When jacking up the car you are unloading the ball joint; thus changing the position of it normal state. This can indeed cause it not to make noise initially - but after it reseats. You can have a rattle due to loose/worn brake pads or a loose caliper as well. If you jack up the car and tap the tire with a hammer this can usually duplicate a rattle noise from loose fitting pads or a loose caliper.

I'm about to take the wheel off the other side and see if the brake pads are wearing abnormally on that one also. I'm told that you can generally use a screwdriver to depress the caliper a bit when you take the brake system off so that it's easier to get back on but with the side I'm having trouble with I can't get it to move and I'm wondering if it seized

Sure sounds like it may be seized. That can be contributing to your problems as well. If it is seized I'd suggest changing the caliper and brake hose as a pair; sometimes the hoses collapse internally.

Yeah he told me to get it up to like 20 mph and slam on the brakes and see if it pulls one way or the other but when I come into this road I have to decelerate from 60 to 0 and maybe 60 ft and I didn't notice it pulling in one direction or the other

It may have rust build up in the caliper piston cup not allowing it to retract; however it may still be working in an outward motion. If it absolutely will not collapse it will need replacement.

Okayyeah I've been between the possibility that jacking it up was doing something to alleviate the issue or allowing it to cool down because generally I bring it in clunking at night and don't work on it until in the morning which would give the entire system time to cool down.. the issue seems to accelerate from the grinding to the clunking a lot more rapidly when I'm in city traffic stop and go and a lot of turns and that sort of thing. Obviously that is going to heat up the braking system and possibly cause a loss of viscosity in the brake fluid which to my understanding would heat up everything around there

Very true - as these cars age fluids and components break down and need repair. I have a 2008 Chevy so I know what you are facing.

Yeah I just took the brakes off the other side and they are not worn on evenly on that side. Really starting to think it's the caliper

If it is seized I would suggest trying to source new "loaded calipers" and Brake hoses. Loaded calipers come with the pads, calipers, caliper brackets and hardware - in most cases. You will of course have to bleed the system with fresh brake fluid as well. Good luck and I hope you find success in your repair!

Yeah thanks for letting me bounce some ideas off of you. between you and the three other people I'm talking to at the same time I think we've broken it down to it being the brake caliper.

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction.

Not sure if you are still connected to this number but we found out it was the rear hub the entire time. Nothing was wrong up front. The sound was resonating