Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(588)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(588)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV8-5.7L DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV6-3.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV6-3.3LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1981 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV8-5.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV8-5.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV6-3.1LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV8-5.7L DieselService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass CruiserV6-2.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Oldsmobile mechanics

Real customer reviews from Oldsmobile owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(588)

Rating Summary
537
27
6
6
12
537
27
6
6
12

Raul

34 years of experience
285 reviews
Raul
34 years of experience
Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser V6-3.3L - Ignition Cable (Spark plug wires) - Hayward, California
Raul obviously knows his way around an engine. He is very professional and also nice to talk to. He explained everything he was going to do and I felt like he enjoyed his work.,and more importantly, I felt that I was informed ,which I appreciate very much. He has a great positive, enthusiastic personality and I would recommend him to anyone who needs reliable mechanical work ;whether you know anything about your own engine or not. I feel I've found somebody I can call whenever I need assistance.

Jeffrey

27 years of experience
870 reviews
Jeffrey
27 years of experience
Oldsmobile Alero L4-2.4L - Oil Change - Charlotte, North Carolina
Excellent as always.

Chris

22 years of experience
2239 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Oldsmobile Cutlass V8-5.0L - Radiator - Garden Grove, California
In and out get the job done quick

Fred

17 years of experience
389 reviews
Fred
17 years of experience
Oldsmobile Cutlass V8-5.7L - Car is not starting - Conroe, Texas
Great mechanic, quickly diagnosed the problem. Would highly recommend.

Excellent Rating

(588)

Rating Summary
537
27
6
6
12
537
27
6
6
12
Number of Oldsmobile services completed
6468+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Oldsmobile MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

5 Essential Things to Know About Wildlife on the Road
According According to the Federal Highway Administration (http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/publications/publicroads/15marapr/03.cfm), there are currently more than 8 million lane-miles of roads throughout the US, with over 6 million of those in rural areas. One important danger of driving in rural areas is the...
P0813 OBD-II Trouble Code: Reverse Output Circuit Malfunction
P0813 P0813 code definition P0813 is the fault code for the Reverse Output Circuit. What the P0813 code means This is the generic OBD-II fault code indicating an issue within the reverse output circuit. When you shift your vehicle into...
How to Change Stabilizer Bar Links
The suspension has stabilizer bar links that fail if there are clunking or rattling noises in the tire area, poor handling, or a loose steering wheel.

When I turn the ac on it makes a very loud squeal that stops after a few minutes. 2007 Jeep Commander

Hi there - It's possible that the tensioner/idler pulley for the serpentine belt (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-serpentine-drive-belt0, which drives both the AC and alternator, is weak, or the serpentine belt is stretched, allowing the belt to slip (and squeal). It is also possible...

Fuel pressure regulator needs replaced.

Hi there. To remove the fuel rail, simply remove the bolts that secure the rail onto the intake manifold and all of the brackets off the rail. Take a pry bar and gently pry up on the fuel rail to...

If a timing chain isnt put on right can that stop the car from starting ?

Hello, thank you for writing in. You are correct. If the timing belt is broken, installed wrong, or the engine is off time for any reason, the vehicle may not start. If you have had recent repairs made to the...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com