Oldsmobile Alero Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(154)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(154)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Oldsmobile Alero Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2001 Oldsmobile AleroV6-3.4LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2000 Oldsmobile AleroV6-3.4LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2004 Oldsmobile AleroV6-3.4LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1999 Oldsmobile AleroV6-3.4LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2002 Oldsmobile AleroL4-2.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2001 Oldsmobile AleroL4-2.4LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2004 Oldsmobile AleroL4-2.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2003 Oldsmobile AleroL4-2.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Oldsmobile Alero Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Oldsmobile mechanics

Real customer reviews from Oldsmobile owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(154)

Rating Summary
141
6
1
3
3
141
6
1
3
3

Jay

37 years of experience
953 reviews
Jay
37 years of experience
Oldsmobile Alero L4-2.4L - Car is not starting - Colton, California
Jay was very thorough and made a prompt appointment to come back and work on my car.

Charles

34 years of experience
342 reviews
Charles
34 years of experience
Oldsmobile Alero V6-3.4L - Oxygen Sensor Replacement (Front/Upper/Upstream) - Round Rock, Texas
Constantly provides the best service

Zachary

17 years of experience
31 reviews
Zachary
17 years of experience
Oldsmobile Alero V6-3.4L - Water Pump - Cape Coral, Florida
5 stars!!!!!!I would recommend Zachary to my friends and family......

Jamahl

20 years of experience
830 reviews
Jamahl
20 years of experience
Oldsmobile Alero L4-2.2L - Oil Change - Orlando, Florida

Excellent Rating

(154)

Rating Summary
141
6
1
3
3
141
6
1
3
3
Number of Oldsmobile Alero services completed
1694+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Oldsmobile MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

What are the Car Pool Rules in Ohio?
Despite Despite being a small state, Ohio is home to a few major metropolitan areas. Tens of thousands of workers commute into and out of Ohio’s major cities on a daily basis, and most of them count on the state’s...
B1953 OBD-II Trouble Code: Seat Rear Up/Down Potentiometer Feedback Circuit Short To Ground
B1953 means there is a shorted circuit in the rear seat's potentiometer, most likely due to bad wiring or a faulty potentiometer.
P0913 OBD-II Trouble Code: Gate Select Actuator Circuit High
P0913 means the transmission gate select actuator circuit is malfunctioning, most likely a result of faulty wiring.

Overheating issue, when heater is on its normal temp. but if heater is off it begins to overheats, until heater is turn on again.

You need to scan the computer to see if the cylinder head temperature sensor under the intake on the right head is reading the engine is overheating or what temperature the engine is running at. The engine cooling fan module...

Speedometer doesn't work.

The signal output of the vehicle speed sensor should be confirmed on a scan tool. There is a plastic gear on the end of the sensor (sold separate from the sensor) and that plastic gear is turned by the transmission....

Why won't my car start?

Hi Ester. Thanks for contacting us today. The first step in diagnosing a problem like you've described is typically tracing and verifying electrical connections that engage the starter. This would begin with the car battery, followed by ground wire connections...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com