Mercedes-Benz SLK230 Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(67)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(67)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz SLK230 Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2001 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
1999 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2003 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2000 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
2004 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
1998 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK230L4-2.3L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
Show example Mercedes-Benz SLK230 Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(67)

Rating Summary
63
2
1
0
1
63
2
1
0
1

Timothy

21 years of experience
21 reviews
Timothy
21 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz SLK230 L4-2.3L Turbo - Trunk Lift Support Shocks - Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Great! Arrived on time and finished before I expected. No problem with Timothy or his work Does an excellent job.

Paul

16 years of experience
16 reviews
Paul
16 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz SLK230 L4-2.3L Turbo - Car is not starting - Arlington, Texas
First time and was delighted

Ramona

22 years of experience
37 reviews
Ramona
22 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz SLK230 L4-2.3L Turbo - Crankshaft Position Sensor - Baltimore, Maryland
Great job

David

16 years of experience
635 reviews
David
16 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz SLK230 L4-2.3L Turbo - Oil Change - Brentwood, California
David came within the window of time given to me. He went right to work & was done in a little over an hour. He explained what he did & gave recommendations on items needing attention. I am very satisfied with David’s work.

Excellent Rating

(67)

Rating Summary
63
2
1
0
1
63
2
1
0
1
Number of Mercedes-Benz SLK230 services completed
737+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercedes-Benz MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Measure Camber
Camber Camber (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-tire-camber) is the angle between the vertical axis of the wheel and the axis of the wheels as seen from the front. If the wheel leans outward at the top, camber is positive. If the wheel leans outward...
10 Best Stores to Buy Auto Parts in Albuquerque, New Mexico
Automotive technicians rely on auto parts stores to add and replace car parts. The best auto parts shop in Abuquerque is AutoZone.
P0434 OBD-II Trouble Code: Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 2)
Trouble code P0434 means the computer has detected a temperature variance in the catalytic converter.

Taillights not working.

Depending on how long ago you had the taillights repaired if it was only a month or two you might be covered by the shop's warranty. If its been a while longer it could just be normal wear and switch,...

Possible braking issue.

Your vehicle is new enough that there should be a manufacturer warranty so do avail yourself of that protection. If you believe the brakes have actuated, or are sticking, in one of these episodes, simply pull over and measure (or...

I'm getting error codes p0108 which is the MAP sensor as well as errors codes for the Throttle position sensor p2111 and p0123 and p2135, nor sure whether I should prioritize changing the throttle body or the MAP sensor

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com