Mazda Tribute Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(275)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(275)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda Tribute Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2009 Mazda TributeV6-3.0LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2004 Mazda TributeV6-3.0LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2010 Mazda TributeL4-2.5L HybridService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2008 Mazda TributeL4-2.3L HybridService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2010 Mazda TributeL4-2.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2003 Mazda TributeV6-3.0LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2009 Mazda TributeL4-2.5L HybridService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2005 Mazda TributeL4-2.3LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Mazda Tribute Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mazda mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mazda owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(275)

Rating Summary
264
7
1
1
2
264
7
1
1
2

Joseph

20 years of experience
640 reviews
Joseph
20 years of experience
Mazda Tribute L4-2.3L - Fuel Injector - Bountiful, Utah
He was patient with all of my questions and waiting for the part to come in the mail. Did not make me feel stupid. He was very respectful. A good guy

Kenneth

20 years of experience
775 reviews
Kenneth
20 years of experience
Mazda Tribute V6-3.0L - Oxygen Sensor Replacement (Front/Upper/Upstream, Rear/Lower/Downstream) - Compton, California
Awesome first experience using Your Mechanic. Will definitely use again. Kenneth was excellent and very helpful.

Jeremy

20 years of experience
592 reviews
Jeremy
20 years of experience
Mazda Tribute V6-3.0L - Drive Belt Tensioner - Boynton Beach, Florida
Immediate trust and confidence. Jeremy is clearly a eperienced mechanic

Jesus

16 years of experience
68 reviews
Jesus
16 years of experience
Mazda Tribute V6-3.0L - Fuel Filter - Hawthorne, California
Friendly, thorough, and patient.

Excellent Rating

(275)

Rating Summary
264
7
1
1
2
264
7
1
1
2
Number of Mazda Tribute services completed
3025+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mazda MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Long Does a Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve Last?
The The braking system on your car requires a lot of pressure. The vacuum booster is one of the main sources of this pressure. This booster will take the pressure that is put on the brake pedal and minimize it...
How to Take Wax Off Your Car
Keeping Keeping your vehicle shiny and looking new takes some work. Washing your vehicle (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-hand-wash-a-car) on a regular basis is a great start, but it also needs to be waxed frequently. While all vehicles come with a clear coat on...
P0632 OBD-II Trouble Code: Odometer Not Programmed – ECM/PCM
P0632 means that the PCM is unable to read the odometer due to battery in the vehicle becoming discharged or for electrical reasons.

Grinding sound when stopping

The grinding noise could be anything as simple as a rock stuck in the backing plate behind the brake rotor to the wheel bearing. The steering wheel shake could be related, but the most common issue is an out of...

p0011 code,check engine light one, changed bank 1 vvt solenoid and check engine light still on?

The P0011 code (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0011-obd-ii-trouble-code-camshaft-position-a-timing-over-advanced-or-system-performance-bank-1-by-jay-safford) is typically caused by oil issues with the car. I would particularly make sure the engine oil level is not low. The VVT solenoid relies on proper oil levels to do their job. If they don't...

04 Avalanche "Battery Not Charging" even after new battery, alternator, ecm, and clean cables.

Confirm that there are no parasitic loads while the car is both idle and running. The grounding of the alternator should be checked. If grounded through the block, make sure all engine to body grounds are adequate. The actual output...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com