GMC K1500 Suburban Battery will not hold a charge Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(43)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(43)

Battery will not hold a charge Inspection Service

How much does a Battery will not hold a charge Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a GMC K1500 Suburban Battery will not hold a charge Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1982 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-5.7LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1995 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-6.5L Turbo DieselService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1983 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-5.7LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1998 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-6.5L Turbo DieselService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1995 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-5.7LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1979 GMC K1500 SuburbanL6-4.1LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1997 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-6.5L Turbo DieselService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1993 GMC K1500 SuburbanV8-5.7LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example GMC K1500 Suburban Battery will not hold a charge Inspection prices

Your car has a battery for a very good reason – it provides the initial power needed to crank the engine and get the car running. After that, the alternator takes over, providing the power for your accessories, as well as recharging the battery. If your battery has died and then recharged, and you’ve found that it will not hold a charge (the battery is fine for a little while, but then the charge dissipates), there’s a problem somewhere in your system that must be diagnosed and repaired.

How this system works:

In a normal system, it works like this: Your battery supplies power to the starter and the main relay. The main relay powers the fuel pump and computer. The battery also supplies the initial electric spark to the spark plugs. Once the engine is cranked, the alternator begins turning, which generates the electricity necessary to recharge the battery and to power the engine and other components.

The alternator should always provide enough electricity to recharge the battery and power your other components. If it does not, then the electricity needed comes from the battery and because it’s not being recharged, it will eventually die. Of course, automotive batteries have a limited lifespan – they should be checked regularly after they’re about three years of age (although it’s wise to have them checked at least twice a year no matter how new they might be).

If your battery won’t hold a charge, it means there are problems within the system that are either preventing the battery from being recharged, or draining the battery when the engine is off.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Bad Cell: Batteries will eventually die no matter what. They will develop a bad cell that prevents them from holding a charge and will need to be replaced. This is part of normal vehicle maintenance. Have your battery tested every Spring and Fall to ensure that you’re able to avoid being stranded by a failed battery. Batteries most commonly “die” during hot and cold weather.

  • Low Water: Some batteries have fill holes that allow you to maintain them, although most modern batteries are maintenance free and don’t allow you to add water. If you have a maintainable battery, topping off the water level may solve the problem.

  • Bad Alternator: If the alternator is not charging the battery while the engine operates, the battery will not hold a charge. This is most noticeable if you jump the battery and the engine runs for a while, only to eventually die. It is also observable by watching your headlights – while the engine is running, check the lights. If they start bright but slowly fade, chances are good that the problem is the alternator, not the battery.

  • Corroded Battery Cables: Battery cables and terminals can suffer from corrosion. As it builds up, this corrosion prevents solid contact, and can limit the charge being supplied to the battery from the alternator. Regular maintenance of your battery can prevent this.

  • Loose Alternator Belt: If the alternator belt is loose (old and stretched), it will not operate the alternator properly, which means that the charge the alternator produces may not be enough to recharge the battery.

  • Parasitic Drain: It might be that your battery and alternator are just fine, but there’s something else draining the charge. This could be something as simple as leaving the lights on, or having an accessory plugged in to an “always on” power outlet, or it could be a stuck relay or something else that’s pulling power from the battery when the engine isn’t running.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your office, home or other location to inspect the battery, the alternator and other components of the charging system. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will test your battery, alternator and starter. The mechanic will also check for parasitic drain and other problems that might make your battery not hold a charge. It may be necessary to replace your battery in order to diagnose other system-wide problems (if the battery has developed a bad cell).

How important is this service?

If your battery won’t hold a charge, it’s not safe to drive your car. Even if your alternator is working fine, turning the car off for something as simple as stopping at the gas station will mean that the engine won’t crank and you’ll need to jump it off. One of our top-rated mechanics can diagnose the problem and get you back up and running.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert GMC mechanics

Real customer reviews from GMC owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(43)

Rating Summary
40
3
0
0
0
40
3
0
0
0

Gerardo

27 years of experience
18 reviews
Gerardo
27 years of experience
GMC K1500 Suburban V8-5.7L - Car is not starting - Orlando, Florida
It is definitely great and convenient to be able to have someone come to your home at a very good price!!!! Although my mechanic was late he took the time from his personal life to assist me.. would definitely recommend him to others.

Chris

11 years of experience
281 reviews
Chris
11 years of experience
GMC K1500 Suburban V8-5.7L - Power Steering Pressure Hose - Glendale, Arizona
Chris shows up on time, is very professional, and talks with me about the most effective way to keep the vehicle in good working order without spending money unnecessarily.

Mike

13 years of experience
176 reviews
Mike
13 years of experience
GMC K1500 Suburban V8-5.7L - Car is not starting - Raleigh, North Carolina
He was very informative and explained what he was doing and what should be done. I have bought a battery and will keep your contact info for future needs

Whitney

39 years of experience
783 reviews
Whitney
39 years of experience
GMC K1500 Suburban V8-5.7L - Fuel Pump - Sunnyvale, California
Hard working guy, Job well done? late night, found washer on ground? Be good? EL

Excellent Rating

(43)

Rating Summary
40
3
0
0
0
40
3
0
0
0
Number of GMC K1500 Suburban services completed
473+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT GMC MECHANICS
900+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Tailgate Locking Assembly
Common signs include the power lock not working, tailgate lock not latching, and tailgate lock cylinder not turning.
How Long Does an Evaporative Emission Control Canister Last?
There There are all kinds of features built into your vehicle that help ensure that amount of gasoline vapors that escape from your vehicle are kept to zero or a very small amount. These kinds of fumes can be quite...
How to Find an SUV With Good Gas Mileage
A sport utility vehicle, or SUV, is a wonderful choice for those who need more cargo space, more passenger seating, or a vehicle capable of more than a typical passenger car. SUVs are commonly able to: Accommodate from five to...

BlueTooth Announcing Texts

I would recommend looking in your 2014 Dodge Dart's owner's manual to see if there are any bluetooth programming options available to you. If so, I would just go into the settings menu and change the bluetooth system to not...

When driving steady with tach at 3000 rpm engine RPM will drop suddenly to 1000 RPM and than suddenly return to 3000 rpm

Hi there. It's quite possible that this issue is directly related to the transmission or torque converter on your Hyundai Sonata. In many cases, the slipping RPM is caused when the transmission slips into a higher gear (like the 3000...

I have a 2011 GMC Terrain, it burns oil. Last week it was running rough, idoling rough, and wanting to die when I would let it idol too long without giving it any gas, and after driving it to work the check [engine](/topics-engine-chevy/) light came on. I read a lot of things on the subject online and everyone recommended NO SMOKE STOP LEAK, I went to autozone and got the codes checked, it said it was a random misfire, I added two quarts of oil and a little bit of the no smoke and it ran perfectly, it was like new. That was last Tuesday. Today it was running kind of weird on the way to work, when it was in first gear and I would give it gas, it would bog down and drop RPM and i would release the gas and then it would drive into second gear and work its way up and would run fine after the first gear transfer. I get to work and it dies when I pull into my parking spot before I can put it into park. I turn it back on and the check engine light is flashing and the stabilitrak light is flashing and its shaking violently. I shut it off and check the oil, there is no oil on the dipstick, I add two quarts because thats all I had on me, and i add another thick drop of the no smoke stop leak into the oil, and turn it back on and its still flashing check engine light and service stabilitrak and its very shaky still. I took it to a mechanic down the street from where I work but have not heard anything back from then yet. What are your thoughts?

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com