Chevrolet G20 Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(70)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(70)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Chevrolet G20 Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $179 with $39 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1991 Chevrolet G20V8-6.2L DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$552.96Shop/Dealer Price$656.05 - $957.22
1992 Chevrolet G20V8-6.2L DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$419.51Shop/Dealer Price$489.72 - $696.24
1993 Chevrolet G20V8-6.2L DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$543.95Shop/Dealer Price$645.30 - $945.16
1991 Chevrolet G20V6-4.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$965.14Shop/Dealer Price$1130.21 - $1616.25
1994 Chevrolet G20V8-5.7LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$814.53Shop/Dealer Price$985.00 - $1488.90
1992 Chevrolet G20V6-4.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$931.62Shop/Dealer Price$1088.62 - $1549.75
1995 Chevrolet G20V8-6.5L DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$464.63Shop/Dealer Price$546.16 - $786.55
1994 Chevrolet G20V6-4.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$543.95Shop/Dealer Price$645.30 - $945.16
Show example Chevrolet G20 Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Chevrolet mechanics

Real customer reviews from Chevrolet owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(70)

Rating Summary
62
3
1
2
2
62
3
1
2
2

Joseph

28 years of experience
578 reviews
Joseph
28 years of experience
Chevrolet G20 V8-5.7L - Spark Plugs - Spring, Texas
HE FIXED A CHRONIC PROBLEM THAT MY REGULAR MECHANICS COULD NOT DIAGNOSE!

Joseph

28 years of experience
578 reviews
Joseph
28 years of experience
Chevrolet G20 V8-5.7L - Car is not starting - Spring, Texas
CARING,DEDICATED,RESOURCEFUL.

Chris

23 years of experience
2372 reviews
Chris
23 years of experience
Chevrolet G20 V8-5.0L - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Laguna Niguel, California
We did a pre-purchase inspection and Chris was incredible. He was very thorough, was clear and vocal about all of the potential issues we'd face in buying the camper. He gave rough estimates for fixing everything and an overall recommendation for what he thought the vehicle was worth. Priceless advice for a very affordable fee.

Deane

12 years of experience
340 reviews
Deane
12 years of experience
Chevrolet G20 V8-5.7L - Car is not starting - Encinitas, California
Dean holds soul as interest!!

Excellent Rating

(70)

Rating Summary
62
3
1
2
2
62
3
1
2
2
Number of Chevrolet G20 services completed
770+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Chevrolet MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P2146 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Injector Group “A” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open
P2146 code definition Fuel Injector Group “A” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open What the P2146 code means P2146 is an OBD-II generic code for...
How Long Does an Air Charge Temperature Sensor Last?
The The air charge temperature sensor, also referred to as the intake air temperature sensor, works to monitor the temperature of the air as it enters your car engine. The engine’s computer has to have this information so it can...
P0537 OBD-II Trouble Code: A/C Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0537 means the evaporator core’s temperature dropped, lowering circuit resistance due to a faulty temperature sensor, expansion valve, or wiring.

How do you get maximum cooling with the Dual Zone Automatic Climate Control?

During very hot weather, you may find that normal air conditioning operation doesn’t quite cut it. There are two ways that you can obtain maximum cooling with your car. Here’s what you should know: Auto: You can use the Automatic...

High fuel pressure

I'd definitely start there because the fuel pressure regulator, as the name suggests, detects and regulates the fuel pressure in the system. If it has too high of a pressure, then the regulator has gone bad (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-fuel-pressure-regulator). That's a very...

What will happen to my car if the rpm is high when idling?

If the "idle" speed is over 1,200 RPM, it's not wise to drive the car both for safety reasons and due to the possibility of repeated harsh transmission engagements and driveline wear. The vehicle's drivetrain was not designed to accommodate...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com