Chevrolet Cobalt Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(446)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(446)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Chevrolet Cobalt Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2006 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2007 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2005 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2010 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2010 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2008 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.4LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2007 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2009 Chevrolet CobaltL4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Chevrolet Cobalt Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Chevrolet mechanics

Real customer reviews from Chevrolet owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(446)

Rating Summary
423
17
1
1
4
423
17
1
1
4

Jeremiah

13 years of experience
87 reviews
Jeremiah
13 years of experience
Chevrolet Cobalt L4-2.2L - Axle / CV Shaft Assembly Replacement (Driver Side Front) - Houston, Texas
Jeremiah arrived early and installed my part efficiently. Nice and professional.

Paul

33 years of experience
134 reviews
Paul
33 years of experience
Chevrolet Cobalt L4-2.2L - Oxygen Sensor Replacement (Front/Upper/Upstream) - Raleigh, North Carolina
I needed urgent car repair service so I called Your Mechanic. Paul did an outstanding job, very professional, super nice and friendly, very impressed by his expertise and efficiency. Thanks, Paul!

Kevin

24 years of experience
532 reviews
Kevin
24 years of experience
Chevrolet Cobalt L4-2.2L - Car is not starting - Norcross, Georgia
Kevin is very knowledgeable. He took the time to explain why the problem occurred and gave me a few tips to avoid this occurring again sooner than it should.

Joseph

20 years of experience
640 reviews
Joseph
20 years of experience
Chevrolet Cobalt L4-2.2L - Serpentine/Drive Belt - Salt Lake City, Utah
The appointment time said the service would take 5 hours, but Joseph had everything done in under 2 hours!!! He is highly efficient and personable, like having an old friend work on my car! Gone are the feelings of despair associated with having to take my car to a shop to be repaired.

Excellent Rating

(446)

Rating Summary
423
17
1
1
4
423
17
1
1
4
Number of Chevrolet Cobalt services completed
4906+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Chevrolet MECHANICS
1600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Maryland Parking Laws: Understanding the Basics
Drivers Drivers in Maryland are responsible for ensuring their vehicles do not become a hazard when they are parked. According to Maryland law, the vehicle needs to be in a space that is away from the travel lanes of a...
How to Transfer a Car Title in Tennessee
In In the state of Tennessee, any change in ownership of a vehicle must be accompanied by a transfer of the car’s title from the previous owner’s name to the new owner’s name. This applies to car purchases/sales, but it...
The Top 10 Car Failures in Top Gear History
Top Gear Season 23 premieres on Monday, May 30 at 6:00 p.m. PT / 9:00 p.m. ET on BBC America. As we come into this new season, there are a few things to celebrate. We usher in a slightly controversial...

No acceleration past 30 mph, then 10 mph

Hello there, thank you for asking about your 1999 Chrysler Intrepid. The engine oil being overfull will not turn on the Check Engine Light. However, a transmission problem could and that's what your issue sounds like. The first step in...

2009 Buick Lacrosse is setting DTC codes P2125 and P2138.

Hi there. Try performing a snap throttle and see if the wave form changes on the Oscilloscope. If the waves do not change when performing a snap throttle, then the throttle position sensor on the pedal needs replaced. If the...

Starter spinning and not engaging flywheel 1991 Nissan Maxima

Hi there - sounds like the starter "bendix drive" (https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/how-do-i-get-to-and-replace-starter-by-rachel) has failed. This is the component on the starter motor shaft that cause the starter motor to engage the flywheel as it spins up. Somewhat unusual failure these days -...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com