BMW iX Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection at your home or office.

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Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection Service

How much does a Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW iX Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2022 BMW iXElectricService typeBrake fluid is black or brown InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
Show example BMW iX Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection prices

Your car requires several different fluids in order to operate. Engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and coolant are all essential. Another important one is brake fluid. Like other fluids, your brake fluid will deteriorate over time and eventually need to be replaced with a brake system flush. If you’ve noticed that your brake fluid appears black or brown, it’s well past time for a service.

How this system works:

Your brakes are operated by fluid pressure. The master cylinder and brake booster work to create pressure, which is then directed to the moving parts of the system (the calipers and shoe actuators). In a normal system, the brake fluid is clear or very light gold in color. This is true whether your car requires DOT 3, 4 or 5 brake fluid.

Brake fluid is held in the master cylinder reservoir, but it is also stored in the brake lines that run from the master cylinder to each wheel. You have two types of brake lines – steel and rubber. Over time and through normal use, brake fluid becomes contaminated. This happens on all vehicles, even brand new ones.

It requires only a couple of years for the fluid to build up enough contaminants that the color begins to change. It will darken over time, changing from clear/golden to a darker gold. In severe situations, your brake fluid may appear to be brown, or even black (think used engine oil).

It’s important that your brake fluid is changed regularly, before it turns brown or black. Very dark colors indicate that your fluid has collected a significant amount of contamination, and might have absorbed moisture, as well. This reduces the system’s ability to build pressure, which compromises your braking performance. You may have noticed that your brake pedal feels softer, or spongy. In serious situations, you may have to pump the pedal a couple of times for it to work properly.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Normal Aging Gone to the Extreme: The most common reason that brake fluid appears brown or black is that normal aging has gone unchecked (you haven’t had the fluid changed in too long). Contaminants collect in the fluid, darkening the color and reducing its ability to work.

  • Moisture Contamination: Brake fluid can absorb moisture from the surrounding air. This generally occurs by rubber brake lines allowing moisture to seep in. When moisture accumulates in brake fluid, it causes problems in a couple of ways. Water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid, and can reach very high temperatures at the calipers and drums. This causes the water to flash boil into steam, causing the brake fluid to darken, but also creating air in the lines. This can cause a soft pedal, or even cause you to have to pump the brake pedal to get the system to work properly.

  • Deteriorating Rubber Lines: The rubber brake lines on your car will eventually deteriorate and need to be replaced. Brake fluid is also corrosive, and while the lines are designed to withstand that corrosion, they’ll eventually begin to break down. Microscopic pieces of rubber and chemicals leaching out of the lines into the fluid will also cause it to darken.

  • Normal Heating: Brake fluid is heated by contact with the calipers, and this heat creates a chemical change in the fluid, adding to the darkening created by moisture and other types of contamination.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and visually inspect your brake fluid’s condition, the master cylinder and the rest of the system to determine if the problem is simply due to normal age and wear/tear. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect the master cylinder, lines and other brake system components. The mechanic will also determine how long it has been since your brake fluid was last changed, and may need to perform a brake fluid flush to remove the contaminated, old fluid and replace it with fresh, clean fluid.

How important is this service?

Brake fluid darkens as it ages – it’s natural, and due to normal contamination that occurs in all brake systems. However, it must be changed regularly, or you risk reduced braking performance and the deterioration or damage of other brake system components. One of our professional mechanics can inspect your system, change your fluid, and ensure that you enjoy the safety you deserve on the road.

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Chris

23 years of experience
2372 reviews
Chris
23 years of experience
BMW X3 L6-3.0L - Brake fluid is black or brown - Laguna Niguel, California
Chris is a rockstar. He arrived right on schedule and was super communicative throughout the whole process. I was out of the country at the time, so unfortunately I couldn't meet him in person. But he made quick work of the job and handled everything like a true professional. He even saved me some money by advising me to remove one of the services that I requested but wasn't necessary after his initial inspection. I really appreciated that. He could have easily charged me for that work and I would've been none the wiser. I'd recommend Chris to anyone in a heartbeat.

Robert

28 years of experience
333 reviews
Robert
28 years of experience
BMW 328i L6-3.0L - Wheel Bearings Replacement (Passenger Side Front) - Laurel, Maryland
Great service

Tinashe

14 years of experience
781 reviews
Tinashe
14 years of experience
BMW 328i L6-3.0L - Oil Change - Atlanta, Georgia
Very knowledgeable and professional.

Christopher

11 years of experience
125 reviews
Christopher
11 years of experience
BMW 330Ci L6-3.0L - Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve - Katy, Texas
Christopher did a great he replaced my pcv on my bmw.

Excellent Rating

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Rating Summary
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6,938
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Ok, this is a little long but I'd love to hear your guys thoughts. I bought a 2014 Impreza AWD 135k miles with the automatic CVT transmission two days ago to flip ($1000) worth (~$7500). The guy got the car from a dealer auction, said it needed a transmission, and didn't want to put the time into it. I'm a car flipper hobbyist so I was looking for something to occupy my time. The car starts and the engine is great, no lights on the dash. The underlying problem is when I shift the car into a gear, THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE. It shifts fine, but the second I rev the engine to try to move the wheels, the dashboard lights up like everyone else here. Turn it off and on again, it goes back to being fine. OBD Scanner says p0700, p2750, and p2746. 1st code is a general transmission problem code, the other two are the primary and secondary speed sensors on the transmission. My initial plan was to get a trans from a junkyard ($450 used) ((car-parts.com) and throw it in, thinking that might cover all of my bases. So I started to drain the fluid to find out it looks dark brown or nearly black. (Youtube shows this might be common) I understand ALOT of people fix this with a valve body ($350-$450 used) or brake light switch (my lights all work and it shifts into gear fine) but after reading this, I might get lucky switching the speed sensors (2x $88). I refilled the transmission with CVT Fluid from the dealership ($75) so I can do an official diagnostic with a multimeter to check harnesses and the TCM (everything checks out). Unfortunately I need to at least lower the transmission a bit so I can take off the primary speed sensor, but if this doesn't work I'll get a transmission from a junkyard and swap it. Either way idk If I can lose on this flip. I'm hoping someone might respond by tomorrow to let me know if both speed sensors being bad would stop my car from moving.The next step in the diagnosis is to replace the speed sensors, but the codes were p0700, p2750, and p2746. I feel like it's weird for both sensors to go bad at the same time. But if they did, would this prevent my car from moving while in gear?

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