BMW 325i Battery is dead Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(441)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(441)

Battery is dead Inspection Service

How much does a Battery is dead Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 325i Battery is dead Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2005 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
2003 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1989 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1991 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
1988 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
1987 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1993 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
1994 BMW 325iL6-2.5LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.94 - $131.39
Show example BMW 325i Battery is dead Inspection prices

While your engine is mechanical, it needs electricity to operate. Electric spark is used to ignite fuel in the combustion chamber, turning the engine over. While the alternator provides the electricity necessary to run the car during operation, the battery is responsible for cranking the car. If your battery is dead, then the car won’t start and you’re essentially dead in the water.

How this system works:

Car batteries are crucial things – they’re responsible for providing the charge to turn over the ignition and crank the engine. Batteries operate based on a chemical reaction – acid and lead in the battery create a chemical reaction, which is then turned into an electric charge and stored in charging plates within the battery itself.

When you turn the ignition switch, several things happen, but all of them require voltage from the battery. When the ignition is switched to on, electricity is sent to the main relay, and from there to the fuel pump (which sends gasoline to the engine for ignition), and the car’s computer. The battery also produces electricity to feed the spark plugs, which ignite the fuel, and turn your car’s starter, which is responsible for actually turning the engine over and essentially jump-starting the combustion process. If your battery is dead, none of those things will happen. Depending on the amount of “juice” left in the battery, you may have just enough power to turn on a few dash lights, or you may not even have enough for that.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Dead Battery: Batteries have a finite lifespan. Most last five years or so, while other batteries are heavy-duty and rated for more than this. All will eventually die and need to be replaced. This is a normal part of vehicle maintenance, and your battery, starter and alternator should be tested regularly to ensure that you’re not stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.

  • Car Lights Left On: With the advent of smarter automotive technology, this has become rarer, but it still occurs. If your car’s lights don’t have an automatic shutoff feature, they’ll stay on unless you physically turn them off. If this happens and the engine isn’t running, they’ll pull power straight from the battery, eventually killing it.

  • Door Not Fully Closed: If your door is open, then the dome light will be on, and other interior lights may also be on. These lights draw their power from the battery if the engine isn’t running, and can quickly drain a battery.

  • Dead Alternator: The alternator produces electricity while the engine is running, and is responsible for providing all the power needed for your engine, your accessories, and to recharge the battery. If the alternator dies, it won’t charge the battery, and all the power needs of your vehicle will come straight from the battery. Eventually, this will drain it completely, leaving you stranded.

  • Bad Starter: It might not be the battery that’s the problem – if your starter has turned its last, your car won’t crank either. Again, regular maintenance can help predict starter failure.

  • Failed Main Relay: Sometimes, everything in the charging system is perfectly fine, but your car still won’t crank. In this instance, the first suspect should be the main relay, since it controls the fuel pump and the car’s computer.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to check the condition of your battery, starter, alternator and other important components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will first check the charge on your battery to determine if it is actually dead (bad cell), or if it only needs to be recharged. A jump-start may be all that is required. The mechanic will also check the alternator, starter and other important components to ensure that you can get back on the road safely.

How important is this service?

If your battery is dead, you’re going nowhere fast. The best protection against this is to have your battery, starter and alternator inspected regularly. However, if you’ve been stranded with a dead battery, one of our professional mechanics can help.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(441)

Rating Summary
419
13
4
3
2
419
13
4
3
2

Whitney

39 years of experience
783 reviews
Whitney
39 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-2.5L - Car is shaking or vibrating - Redwood City, California
Job well done. Figured out the issue and got it repaired the same day. :-)

Jeffrey

27 years of experience
870 reviews
Jeffrey
27 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-2.5L - Coolant is leaking - Charlotte, North Carolina
Jeff did an excellent job on my car. He is so knowledgeable and nice.

Nick

10 years of experience
25 reviews
Nick
10 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-2.5L - Brake light is not working - Rancho Cordova, California
Professional- answered all my questions- very knowledgeable- went above and beyond . Highly recommend.

Kenneth

20 years of experience
775 reviews
Kenneth
20 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-2.5L - Clutch is not working - Beverly Hills, California
Always knowledgeable, polite

Excellent Rating

(441)

Rating Summary
419
13
4
3
2
419
13
4
3
2
Number of BMW 325i services completed
4851+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Buy Good Quality Long Range Car Lights
Your Your car is equipped with two types of headlight functionality – low beams, which are used for general driving, particularly in areas with streetlights and oncoming traffic, and high beams, which provide long range illumination. Buying quality long range...
P2036 OBD-II Trouble Code: Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P2036 P2036 Code Definition Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 2) What the P2036 code means The P2036 trouble code indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected a malfunction in the exhaust gas temperature (EGT)...
P0811 OBD-II Trouble Code: Excessive Clutch Slippage
P0811 means there is either an issue with the clutch position sensor circuit (manual) or the PCM (automatic) often due too faulty, wiring or switches.

Transmission making clunking and banging noises - 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche 2500 V8 Automatic

Check for problem codes - you mention that the Check Engine Light is on. This could be the torque convertor clutch not releasing as you slow down, or not locking up smoothly when you reach 40-50 mph accelerating. And yes,...

Car skipping

I am making the assumption that the skip you are referring to is a misfire that you are describing. There are several factors that can cause an engine misfire (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/engine-is-misfiring-inspection). A defective distributor cap/rotor, bad spark plug, bad plug wire,...

Loss of all acceleration after hard acceleration and check engine like blinking

You could have an engine or transmission problem causing the computer to go into failsafe mode and limit power and would need to have the computer scanned for the failure codes stored for the cause of the problem. You may...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com