Audi A6 Brake Master Cylinder Replacement Costs

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

See availability

Customer Ratings

Brake Master Cylinder Replacement Service

How much does a Brake Master Cylinder Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi A6 Brake Master Cylinder Replacement is $256 with $116 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

Car	Service	Estimate	Shop/Dealer Price
1997 Audi A6V6-2.8L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$940.66	Shop/Dealer Price$1143.38 - $1737.35
2000 Audi A6V6-2.8L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$823.51	Shop/Dealer Price$986.11 - $1464.53
2016 Audi A6L4-2.0L Turbo	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$1224.86	Shop/Dealer Price$1471.24 - $2197.19
1998 Audi A6V6-2.8L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$421.91	Shop/Dealer Price$484.16 - $661.42
2007 Audi A6V6-3.2L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$1250.34	Shop/Dealer Price$1489.32 - $2174.78
2017 Audi A6L4-2.0L Turbo	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$1224.86	Shop/Dealer Price$1468.98 - $2193.24
2011 Audi A6V6-3.2L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$1250.34	Shop/Dealer Price$1483.20 - $2164.07
2013 Audi A6L4-2.0L Turbo	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$1919.12	Shop/Dealer Price$2339.06 - $3585.70

Show example Audi A6 Brake Master Cylinder Replacement prices

What is the brake master cylinder and how does it work?

The brake master cylinder has a piston that pressurizes fluid in the brake lines to each wheel cylinder as you apply force to the brake pedal. That pressure moves the pistons that are in the wheel cylinders. As the pistons in those wheel cylinders move, they force the brake pads or shoes tightly against the rotors or drums allowing the car to stop quickly.

The size of the pistons in the master cylinder and in the wheel cylinders are carefully selected when designing a car. This allows drivers to apply moderate pressure on the brake pedal when stopping, but creates tremendous pressure applied at the wheel cylinders. A car can then stop quickly even at high speeds. Depending on how much force is applied to the brake pedal, the pressure in a car’s brake lines will typically be in the range of 800 PSI to 2,000 PSI.

Master Cylinder

When to replace the master cylinder?

External fluid leaks. There should be no fluid visible on the external surfaces of any portion of the master cylinder or the plastic fluid reservoir.
Low, slowly falling, or spongy brake pedal. Faulty internal seals on the piston can cause internal leaks and also seepage of brake fluid into the power assist brake booster. Internal leaks will typically be accompanied by a low pedal, a spongy brake pedal, or a pedal that slowly sinks as you maintain pressure. In all cases, you will experience reduced braking abilities.
Discolored brake fluid. No brake fluids, other than those specified for the year, make, and model, are fully compatible with a car’s internal rubber seals in the master cylinder. Discoloration of brake fluid can also occur due to moisture and particulate contaminants in the fluid.
Warning lights on the dash. If the brake system warning light illuminates, there are several potential causes but failure of the master cylinder is in the list of causes that would have to be investigated.

How do mechanics replace the brake master cylinder?

On vehicles with power brakes, the master cylinder is bolted to the metal housing of the power brake booster. There is usually an electrical plug connecting to a brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir and that plug must be disconnected.
Once all steel brake lines are disconnected from the master cylinder, the master cylinder is unbolted from the brake booster and removed from the vehicle.
The new master cylinder must be bench-bled to expel air from internal passages that contain the piston. Then the new master cylinder is bolted to the brake booster and the brake lines are reattached. The electrical plug for the fluid level sensor is reconnected.
Whenever a new master cylinder is installed, brakes lines to wheel positions must be bled to remove air, old fluid and contaminants. If your vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes, the mechanic may use a bidirectional scan tool during brake bleeding to actuate the ABS pump, thus ensuring that all air is removed from the complex valving in the ABS system.
All brake line connections that were removed during the master cylinder replacement are inspected for any leakage and the vehicle is road tested to ensure normal operation of the brakes.

Is it safe to drive with a master cylinder problem?

No, any fault in the master cylinder, which is part of the braking system creates a safety risk. A fully operational brake system is essential to quickly stopping your car. Driving a vehicle isn’t safe, if the master cylinder is leaking or has other faults, as braking distances might be longer than normal. The braking system on a vehicle is among the most important safety systems and must be fully functional to safely drive your vehicle.

When replacing the master cylinder keep in mind:

The master cylinder is only one component of many in a vehicle’s braking system. During replacement of the master cylinder, all vehicle braking system components should be inspected to ensure maximum braking power is available.
The amount of friction material remaining on the brake pads and brake shoes should be verified.
Brake lines and flexible rubber hoses at each wheel position should be inspected for corrosion and deterioration.
The power brake booster should be evaluated to ensure that power assist is working properly.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee

Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(68)

Rating Summary

63

1

0

0

4

63

1

0

0

4

SEE REVIEWS NEAR ME

Carlos

22 years of experience

47 reviews

Carlos

22 years of experience

by Sam

Audi A6 L4-2.0L Turbo - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Richmond, Texas

Carlos provided good service and was able to finish on time. I would have Carlos service my car again.

Collins

13 years of experience

678 reviews

Request Collins

Collins

13 years of experience

Request Collins

by PRANAV

Audi A6 L4-2.0L Turbo - Spare Tire Installation - Atlanta, Georgia

Great service and friendly!

Terry

31 years of experience

223 reviews

Terry

31 years of experience

by Will

Audi A6 V6-3.0L - Car is not starting - Tempe, Arizona

Fantastic-very prompt and very thorough with his work.

Carlos

17 years of experience

362 reviews

Carlos

17 years of experience

by Raji

Audi A6 V6-3.0L - Coolant is leaking - Southlake, Texas

Carlos was great! He was very courteous & knowledgeable. First impressions are very important, and I will continue to use "Your Mechanic" because of Carlos.

Excellent Rating

(68)

Rating Summary

63

1

0

0

4

63

1

0

0

4

SEE REVIEWS NEAR ME

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Exhaust Clamp

If your exhaust is noisy, loose, or failing an emissions test, you may need to replace an exhaust clamp.

How to Buy a Good Quality Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Tube

Exhaust Exhaust gas recirculation tubes (EGR tubes) are responsible for moving a very small amount of gas from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold in order to help reduce emissions of nitrous oxide. This tube is the key point...

How to Get the Best APR on a Car Loan

The The Annual Percentage Rate (APR) of your car loan is the yearly interest rate on any money you borrow from a lender. The APR includes such things as the principal, any taxes on the vehicle, and any interest and...

Loss of oil pressure

The oil sender may be bad causing the erratic readings. I would, however, suggest having the oil pressure tested with a gauge before replacing the sending unit for the oil pressure. If it tests okay and the pressures are normal,...

There is an awful clunking rattling noise when the engine is running.

Hi there. There could be either the engine is having a bearing slap on the rod bearings with too much wear causing the noise or an accessory on the engine is locking up making the belt tensioner pop back and...

Steering wheel shakes.

What you are describing sounds like a problem with the rack and pinion gears. The rack and pinion gear set does two things: It converts the rotational motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion needed to turn the...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com