I have a question about an electrical issue with my 2017 ...


I have a question about an electrical issue with my 2017 Nissan Altima sr 2.5L auto trans (midnight package) Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Altima SR yourself? What have you tried so far? I’ve tried troubleshoo...

I have a question about an electrical issue with my 2017 Nissan Altima sr 2.5L auto trans (midnight package) Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Altima SR yourself? What have you tried so far? I’ve tried troubleshooting it w a multimeter, replaced a couple of fuses. Mechanic's Assistant: Most vehicles have two fuse panels. Have you located both? Yes Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the Mechanic to know before I connect you? My defrost and ac isn’t working because I connected my amps control wire(1500 watt rms) to a couple of the wires associated with the harness that is located i. The back of the ac instrument panel so I’m just trying to figure out what I need to do to get the ac working again. I cannot locate the proper fuses to fix this. The rear defrost is the only thing that works. So I assume it’s a blower/motor or fan?

Automotive Expert
Hello and welcome to Just Answer. I'm Paul, And happy to help you with your question today. the fuses that could cause the blower motor not to run are seen in the wiring diagram below. [https://peapull.com/o/1613413856.pdf](https://peapull.com/o/1613413856.pdf) Left side of dash Fuse 30 (10 amp) Fuse 14 (5 amp) Fuse 25 (10 amp) Fuse 17 (15 amp) Fuse 27 (15 amp) Check the fuses with key on and back probbing them with a test light. or you could pull them to see if they are broken but this is not the recommended method as its hard to see if their blown some times. the test light is best method it should light up on both sides of the back of the fuse with key on. If you need more help just reply, and let me know. Thank you, Paul

Hi Paul. I have a bit of a semi-unrelated question. Well maybe two... so first... and this may seem a little bit impractical but can I charge my 2.5 farad capacitor with a bulb from inside of my house or easily and safely with one from my car? I've researched it a little and just wanted your take on it or if you see it as too dangerous in my case maybe? I also understand that there's a factor of polarity with dc and ac bulbs? Also.. there's a green wire... the first fuse you mentioned I believe, that is actually all the way disconnected and I patched it with a piece of my control wire.. maybe a mistake? But the wire isn't terminated, so the car goes haywire and into some sort of test mode when I Make the connection. And then when I turn the car off and back on with the wire in place I can hear something kicking on and off again if the wire looses connection. At its termination point.... however, the two lights indicating on/off for the fan speed and temp don't come on and the vents do not blow any air out. So I'm going to unhook the power cable and ground wires from The battery that were once attached to the amp, but I unplugged it and secured the Wires at the amp end... Cause now I'm worried about the live wire causeing the Issue or being a pretty big hazard if nothing else. Will this help do you think? Thank you

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