I have a Hummer h2 2006 the brake switch was replaced and...

Hi there I will do all I can to help. Give me a few minutes i will find a wiring diagram for you so you can check if you are getting power to the solenoid or not.

Here is the diagram, check if the BTSI fuse and the B/UP lamp fuse at the underhood fusebox. Then check if your brake lights are working as well. if you have no brake lights then the brake switch is not good or there is a broken wire in the circuit. if you have brake lights check the dark green/white wire from the brake switch to the shift lock control solenoid for continuity using a multimeter, if the wire is good then check the ground.

Just to confirm brake switch is new and brake lights work also the shift solonoid under the lever is new

I understand but if the solenoid is still not clicking then you need to check the wires on the diagram I sent. Check with a multimeter for continuity from the brake switch to the solenoid first then check the ground of the shifter. If the wire has no continuity then its broken somewhere along the way. If it is just run another wire

Fuses fineContinuity for green fineWhich color is the ground

The ground is the black wire. Did you check both the dark green from the brake switch and the other light green from the fuse?

Now the car shows engine power reduced and I checked the fuses the ecm fuse seems to break even when I change it

Sorry for the late reply I was unable to come online for a bit. Here is a diagram i found out for the ect/ecm fuse is a 15 amp fuse is that the fuse you are talking about. if so check the wire that goes to the throttle body for continuity, a fuse usually blows due to a surge of amperage (short), if the wire is fine then most likely the throttle body has an internal shortage, unplug the throttle body and replace the fuse see if it blows with the throttle body disconnected.

I plugged out the throttle body and put a 30 amp fuse dint blow up does this mean I need to change the throttle body

most likely yes, but before you replace it check the wire from the fuse to the throttle body for continuity using a multimeter. Was the original fuse a 30A fuse?

Original fuse was 15 amps and which color wire to check continuity

Ok the pink wire on the throttle body connector should have continuity to the fuse.

Hi there is no pink wire

what color is the wire on pin 7 of the big connector at the throttle body?

Dark green

Ok you are looking at the connector at the throttle body, you need to be looking at the connector at the throttle body control module first. I leave a picture attached of what it looks like. it is on the left rear side of the engine compartment should be attached to the firewall. the big connector should have a pink wire on terminal 7

the fuse to the pink wire on the harness has alot of resistance

the wire must be broken if there is a lot of resistance, there should be 0 or close to 0 resistance. check the resistance of this wire to ground, both from the fuse and the connector to check if the wire is shorting to ground

it shows resistance from fuse and connector to groundBut I reconnected the throttle body and now the fuse blew again but when I start the car it doesn't show the engine power reduced now but the gear doesn't shift still it just makes noise on the dash when I wiggle the connector on the Handel's sensor nothing when I press the brake pedal.

For the ecm fuse blowing see if unplugging the throttle body module blows the fuse or not, usually is the module that fails, try to scan the vehicle with an obd scanner see if there is any codes also would be useful to scan the throttle body control module for any codes as well, only some scanners are capable of scanning this module. for the gearshifter, you said you replaced a solenoid, but there is 2 in the shift lever. did you replace both solenoids? , there is the a/t shift lock control solenoid and the park lock solenoid. you can power up each wire from the diagram of the shift interlock with 12V from another battery or a power probe to see if the solenoids are working. just touch the power(12V) briefly, a needle soldered to a wire works as a probe to power any wire.

the fuse still blows with only the big connector open I also did a obd code scan nothing major showed up after I cleared the codes for the open connectors,also where is the location of the other solonoid for the park shifter you mentioned.Is there anything under the dash near the steering that makes a click when I wiggle the connector on the gear lever and also is it possible only the connector is loose as when I wiggle it I hear a sound in the dash but not the solonoid in the lever and I have to do that to take the key out.

The other solenoid is inside the shift lever as well. I cannot find an exploded diagram. it is possible the connector is loose, check the wires one by one on the connector give them a slight pull, if there is any broken wire they would come out and you would need to fix it. I will opt out of this question to see if another expert can help you with the shift lever issue.

if it clicks when you wiggle the connector, replace the pigtail for the econnector