Suzuki Swift Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(464)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(464)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Suzuki Swift Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1993 Suzuki SwiftL3-1.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1997 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1995 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2001 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1998 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1992 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.6LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1994 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2000 Suzuki SwiftL4-1.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Suzuki Swift Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Suzuki mechanics

Real customer reviews from Suzuki owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(464)

Rating Summary
435
20
1
2
6
435
20
1
2
6

William

20 years of experience
129 reviews
William
20 years of experience
Suzuki Swift L4-1.3L - Car is hard to shift - Cape Coral, Florida
Saved me a lot of time and money I would use him again!

Kyle

12 years of experience
39 reviews
Kyle
12 years of experience
Suzuki Aerio L4-2.3L - Car Battery Replacement - Charlotte, North Carolina
n/a

Jason

32 years of experience
515 reviews
Jason
32 years of experience
Suzuki XL-7 V6-2.7L - Car is overheating - Milpitas, California
Jason showed up early and was very nice and very efficient. He determined what needed fixing on my car and we set an appointment for him to come back and fix the problem. Looking forward to seeing him again!

Jonathan

22 years of experience
304 reviews
Jonathan
22 years of experience
Suzuki Samurai L4-1.3L - Car is not starting - Denver, Colorado
Very good- professional and knowledgeable

Excellent Rating

(464)

Rating Summary
435
20
1
2
6
435
20
1
2
6
Number of Suzuki services completed
5104+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Suzuki MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Replace a Steering Angle Sensor
A steering angle sensor fails if the Traction Control Light illuminates, the steering wheel feels loose, or the vehicle drives differently.
How to Troubleshoot a Gas Cap That Won't Come Off
Gas caps stick and won't come off when the gas cap is broken, there's a mechanical defect in the gas tank filler neck, or gas cap is locked.
B1999 OBD-II Trouble Code: Passenger Side Side-Mount Air Bag Low Resistance on Squib
B1999 trouble code means there's a circuit malfunction in the passenger side-mount air bag inflator, caused by blown fuses or shorted wires.

I put on a CAI...and 2 days later my check engine light came on..and it was bank 2 po174

Hi there. One minor, yet highly important detail that most aftermarket part manufacturers fail to tell customers is that the installation of their components will impact the operation of the sensor that monitor systems on OEM vehicles; like your BMW....

Check Engine light comes on and goes off 2005 Volvo S40

Hi there - without knowing whether the fuel pressure problem (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-buy-a-good-quality-fuel-pressure-regulator) is "pressure high" or "pressure low", it would be speculating as to what component may be malfunctioning. Get the problem codes turning the Check Engine light on. For the...

issues after toyota repaired scon tc engine due to excess oil consumption test failure

The extended warranty (there was no recall) that Toyota has offered on your vehicle, in response to the excessive oil consumption issue, only includes the short block, consequently all cylinder head components are excluded. You should measure your oil consumption....

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com