Ram Dakota Engine is making a gurgling sound Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(4)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(4)

Engine is making a gurgling sound Inspection Service

How much does a Engine is making a gurgling sound Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ram Dakota Engine is making a gurgling sound Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2011 Ram DakotaV8-4.7LService typeEngine is making a gurgling sound InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
2011 Ram DakotaV6-3.7LService typeEngine is making a gurgling sound InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
Show example Ram Dakota Engine is making a gurgling sound Inspection prices

You’re driving along one day just fine. You arrive at your destination and park your car, turning the engine off. Just as you’re about to get out, you hear what sounds like a bubbling, or the engine making a gurgling noise. If you’re like many vehicle owners, your first thought is that something is very wrong. Well, it may be a problem or it might be normal operation.

How this system works:

Hearing a bubbling or gurgling sound means that there’s fluid at work. The most common source of this sound is your coolant system, particularly if you have an expansion tank attached to your radiator.

These systems work a little differently than those on other vehicles. In a basic coolant system, the coolant is locked into the radiator, with nowhere to go as it heats. In a vehicle with an expansion tank, engineers have taken into account the natural expansion of fluid when it’s heated.

Your expansion tank is connected to the radiator, usually by a hose through the radiator cap, but sometimes in another location. As the coolant heats and expands, some of it spills over into the overflow tank. When the coolant cools and condenses, it moves into the radiator. Both of these can cause a gurgling or bubbling sound, and are completely normal.

However, there’s also the possibility that there is air trapped in the system. As the bubbles move with the flow of coolant, you hear the movement as a “gurgling”. This can be a problem – air trapped in the system can cause your car to overheat.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Inexpert Coolant Service: The most common reason for air to be trapped in your system is that it wasn’t bled out properly when your coolant was changed. There are several ways to bleed air from the coolant system, including using a funnel on the radiator attached to a special tool that allows mechanics to run the engine while filling the coolant. There are also bleeder valves located on the coolant lines (notably at the back of the engine) that let you bleed air out.

  • Blown Head Gasket: A blown head gasket can allow exhaust gases to enter the coolant, which becomes trapped in the system and can cause a bubbling or gurgling sound during operation. If this is the case, you may also notice that your engine doesn’t run as well as it used to because it’s losing compression due to the leak.

  • Air in the Heater Core: Your car’s heater core uses coolant to provide the heat for your cabin. If air makes it into the heater core, you’ll hear a bubbling or gurgling sound from the passenger side, behind the glovebox.

  • Low Coolant: If your coolant is low, then air moves in to fill the void left by the missing coolant. Again, this creates air pockets in your system, which cause the gurgling sound. Low coolant is generally caused by a leak or several leaks, including from cracked hoses, a leaking water pump gasket and many other possible locations.

  • Normal Operation: As mentioned above, some vehicles have an expansion tank as part of the coolant system, and hearing some bubbling/gurgling is normal with these types of systems.

What to expect:

One of our highly trained mechanics will come to your home or office to inspect your radiator, coolant level and listen to the gurgling noise. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will check the coolant level, as well as the condition of the radiator, radiator hoses, coolant reservoir/overflow tank and more. It may be necessary to test drive the car in order to get the engine up to normal operating temperature and duplicate the noise in question.

How important is this service?

While bubbling or gurgling from the engine may be normal on some vehicles, it is not on all of them. It could be a sign of air trapped in the system, which can cause the engine to overheat. Having your coolant system regularly serviced and properly maintained is essential, and one of our professional mechanics can inspect the system and provide any needed repairs.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ram mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ram owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(4)

Rating Summary
4
0
0
0
0
4
0
0
0
0

Steven

21 years of experience
200 reviews
Steven
21 years of experience
Ram Dakota V8-4.7L - Spark Plugs - Irving, Texas
He was great. A lot of knowledge and very productive!

Adam

16 years of experience
64 reviews
Adam
16 years of experience
Ram Dakota V8-4.7L - Shock Absorber Replacement (Rear) - Irving, Texas
Adam is very skilled and reliable.

Michael

4 years of experience
263 reviews
Michael
4 years of experience
Ram Dakota V8-4.7L - Starter - Greenfield, Indiana
Fast, on time knew what to do and did it!

Michael

4 years of experience
263 reviews
Michael
4 years of experience
Ram Dakota V8-4.7L - Car is not starting - Greenfield, Indiana
Michael carefully checked out problem and determined the problem, gave me a quote and set up a appointment while he was here!

Excellent Rating

(4)

Rating Summary
4
0
0
0
0
4
0
0
0
0
Number of Ram Dakota services completed
44+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ram MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

4 Essential Things to Know About Your Car’s Fuel Gauge
Few Few things are as frustrating and worrisome as running out of gas. Most people will do their best to make sure that they always have some gas in the tank. However, if there is an issue with the fuel...
How to Replace an Automatic Shutdown Relay
The ASD (Automatic Shutdown) relay is failing when electrical functions in the vehicle are inoperative or when the car will not start.
P0382 OBD-II Trouble Code: Glow Plug / Heater Circuit "B" Malfunction
Trouble code P0382 means the glow plug in heater circuit B for a diesel engine has malfunctioned, often due to faulty glow plug wiring or open fuse.

Car is shifting hard using a lot of gas and getting hot

Hey there. This may be due to a few different things such as a transmission speed sensor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/transmission-speed-sensor-replacement), a failing transmission control module, or potentially low transmission fluid (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/transmission-fluid-service). As you may know, the transmission uses hydraulic pressure created by...

My 2008 Nissan Sentra tail light/running light fuse keeps blowing. I'll change it and within 2 days it blows again. What u think?

The first thing you should do is replace the rear bulbs for the parking lights since they may be intermittently grounding out inside the bulbs. If still continues then replace front bulbs. If still continues then you will need to...

I just replaced the rear [struts](/topics-strut/) on my 98 [camry](/topics-camry/), they were monroe quick struts and I replaced them with the same, the old ones were around 8 years old and the suspension needed replacing, i just finished installing everything, i torqued everything to proper spec except the upper mount inside the car, can't get a torque wrench in there because its so tight and can't use a socket to tighten, had to use a combination wrench but I did get them tight, originally after installing before driving I heard squeaks when depressing the suspension but I wasn't so worried about that because they're brand new and haven't been depressed before, now after driving around the neighborhood with windows open listening for sounds I strained to hear anything but there wasn't anything over the sound of the car. After parking I hear a clunking sound after depressing one side of the car. I also replaced the stabilizer end links and the stabilizer bushings, the end links were really difficult to tighten, especially with a torque wrench but theyre at least at 25 ft/lbs which is the spec I found online, kind of concerned about that as well because I found a one off quote for the spec at 60 ft/lbs which I don't think is likely to be correct because in order to tighten you've got to grab this tiny round bolt housing on the ball joint in order to tighten and the tighter you want to get the tighter you need to squeeze on the round housing. Finally I'm a little concerned the stabilizer bar isn't centered, i mean it seems that way and it was difficult to get the clips around the new bushing back on, as in they really only fit one way and it was tough getting them threaded in the first place without a bunch of adjustment. I'm wondering what that clunking sound is, how to diagnose it, how to fix it, and anything else that could be an issue after the replacement.

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com