Mitsubishi Outlander Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(123)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(123)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mitsubishi Outlander Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2014 Mitsubishi OutlanderV6-3.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2012 Mitsubishi OutlanderV6-3.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2022 Mitsubishi OutlanderL4-2.5LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2016 Mitsubishi OutlanderL4-2.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2016 Mitsubishi OutlanderV6-3.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2011 Mitsubishi OutlanderV6-3.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2003 Mitsubishi OutlanderL4-2.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2017 Mitsubishi OutlanderL4-2.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Mitsubishi Outlander Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mitsubishi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mitsubishi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(123)

Rating Summary
114
7
1
0
1
114
7
1
0
1

William

26 years of experience
65 reviews
William
26 years of experience
Mitsubishi Outlander L4-2.4L - Air Filter - Georgetown, Texas
Same day service on both my cars excellent as always.

Frank

8 years of experience
130 reviews
Frank
8 years of experience
Mitsubishi Outlander L4-2.4L - Car does not move when I step on the gas pedal - Downers Grove, Illinois
Great mechanic, new right away what was the problem and explained it to me.

Colin

27 years of experience
117 reviews
Colin
27 years of experience
Mitsubishi Outlander L4-2.4L - Alternator - Port Richey, Florida
Colin was absolutely wonderful. He showed up promptly to my appointment and got right to work. He was very kind and extremely funny. He alerted me to some of my fluids being low and explained everything I should do as a next step to keep my car running smoothly. I would definitely recommend him to anyone.

Mark

18 years of experience
72 reviews
Mark
18 years of experience
Mitsubishi Outlander L4-2.4L - Oxygen Sensor Replacement (Front/Upper/Upstream, Rear/Lower/Downstream) - Cincinnati, Ohio
Absolutely wonderful service at a reasonable price!

Excellent Rating

(123)

Rating Summary
114
7
1
0
1
114
7
1
0
1
Number of Mitsubishi Outlander services completed
1353+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mitsubishi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0040 OBD-II Trouble Code: O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Sensor 1
P0040 P0040 code definition P0040 indicates that there is an issue with the oxygen sensor sensor 1 circuit. This code can be in conjunction with P0041 What the P0040 code means P0040 is a specific code indicating a problem with...
Child Seat Safety Laws in Virginia
When When you secure your child in a properly installed child seat, you reduce his or her chances of being injured in a motor vehicle accident by 69%, and of being killed by 71%. It just makes sense to obey...
How to Keep Your Car Smelling Fresh
You You love that fresh new-car smell, but sadly, it only lasts for a little while. But don’t worry! You can keep your car smelling good all year round and avoid unpleasant odors (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-remove-odors-from-your-car) if you follow a few easy-to-do...

believe i have a bad power steering pump, how much does that job cost usually? now my car is having trouble starting, any relation

You will need to have the engine checked to see if it was a starter drive that was stuck and you burned up the starter. It may be the starter that was making the noise. I recommend having this checked...

2005 Chrysler 300C changed battery and alternator. Car started, ran, and then battery light came on. Shut car off and wouldn't start.

Hi. There is a couple of things that could be wrong here. The battery (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-battery) or alternator (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-alternator) that was just installed could be defective. Theses parts need to be tested for proper operation. There also could be a fuse,...

My front passenger door won't open from the inside

Hi Andrew. Thanks for contacting us today. It's more than likely that the inner door latch mechanism has either broken or has come loose. To resolve this problem, you should probably have a professional mechanic complete a door will not...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com