Mercury Mountaineer Clutch is not working Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(228)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(228)

Clutch is not working Inspection Service

How much does a Clutch is not working Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercury Mountaineer Clutch is not working Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2001 Mercury MountaineerV8-5.0LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1998 Mercury MountaineerV6-4.0LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2000 Mercury MountaineerV8-5.0LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2009 Mercury MountaineerV6-4.0LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2004 Mercury MountaineerV6-4.0LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2004 Mercury MountaineerV8-4.6LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2005 Mercury MountaineerV8-4.6LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1999 Mercury MountaineerV8-5.0LService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Mercury Mountaineer Clutch is not working Inspection prices

While most vehicles out on the road today are automatics, there are still quite a few manual transmissions cruising the streets. When it comes to a manual transmission, one of the most important components is the clutch. Clutches that are well maintained and cared for can last up to 80,000 miles but an abused clutch can start to fail after a mere 35,000 miles.

The clutch is essential to the safe operation of the vehicle and a malfunctioning clutch can quickly damage other transmission parts, which will greatly increase the cost of the repair. Clutch problems should be addressed as soon as the first signs of trouble appear.

How this system works:

The clutch system transmits engine power to the gearbox and also allows the transmission to be interrupted during gear change. The main components of the clutch system include the master cylinder, a slave cylinder, flywheel, and an operating linkage.

The majority of vehicles use a friction clutch that is operated by hydraulic fluid or a cable. A flywheel connects to the engine and the clutch plate connects to the transmission. The clutch is engaged when the pedal is not being depressed. The springs push the pressure plate against the flywheel, which locks the transmission to the engine.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch disengages. An arm pushes a release bearing against the center of the spring, which releases the clamping pressure.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Malfunctioning Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder: A clutch master cylinder has a reservoir that holds brake fluid. The master cylinder is connected to the slave cylinder via hoses. As the clutch pedal is depressed, brake fluid moves from the master cylinder to the slave, which applies pressure to engage the clutch. Both the master and slave cylinders have seals that can wear out which will cause a leak. A leak will eventually lead to a clutch malfunction. Common symptoms of a failing master or slave clutch cylinder include the clutch going all the way to the floor, not being able to shift gears and a brake fluid leak.

  • Clutch Fluid Leak: Clutch fluid is actually just brake fluid. A leak in the system will make it hard to change gears and the clutch pedal may go all the way to the floor. The may also be a puddle of brake floor on the garage floor. A fluid leak is often a symptom of a more serious problem.

  • Slipping Clutch: Clutches are designed to slip a bit when the clutch is first engaged or during gear change to provide a smooth ride but once the clutch is fully engaged there shouldn’t be any slippage. In most cases, slipping will happen while the vehicle is hauling a load or when going up a hill. Slipping can cause the clutch to get hot, which can result in burned clutch facings, which can damage the flywheel and pressure plate. Normal wear and tear is usually the cause of a slipping clutch. The problem should be addressed as soon as the first symptoms appear to avoid additional damage.

  • Chattering or Jerky Clutch: A grabby or jerky clutch is often caused by oil or grease that has gotten on the clutch linings. A warped flywheel or a loose clutch cover can also cause this problem.

  • Air in Hydraulic Line: If there is air in the hydraulic line it will take up space that the fluid needs to build the proper pressure. This can result in a sticking clutch.

  • Misadjusted linkage: The linkage that connects the pedal to the clutch system can become misadjusted. A sticking clutch is often a sign of this problem. The linkage will need to be adjusted to correct this problem.

  • Broken Clutch Cable: The clutch cable can end up stretched or broken. If this is the case the clutch will often stick. The cable will need to be replaced.

  • Clutch Will Not Release: There are many things that can cause a clutch to not release. Everything from the damaged input shaft splines to a worn bearing retainer to a bent clutch disk. A vehicle that has a clutch that will not release should be inspected as soon as possible as not repairing it will lead to further damage.

  • Hard Clutch: If the clutch feels hard or stiff there is a good chance there is a problem with the pedal linkage or the clutch cable.

What to expect:

A top-­rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the clutch issue, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How important is this service?

The clutch is integral to a smooth working transmission and even one malfunctioning part can have drastic affects on the rest of the clutch system as well as the transmission. Clutch issues should be repaired as quickly as possible.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercury mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercury owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(228)

Rating Summary
216
6
1
1
4
216
6
1
1
4

Eugenio

26 years of experience
133 reviews
Eugenio
26 years of experience
Mercury Mountaineer V6-4.0L - Clutch is not working - Fairfax, Virginia

Robert

4 years of experience
61 reviews
Robert
4 years of experience
Mercury Mountaineer V8-5.0L - Water Pump - Gig Harbor, Washington
I don't think I could be any happier with my experience with Robert than I am. Robert is extremely capable and professional. He was straightforward and clear about what my car needed and what it didn't need. Robert and YourMechanic made the process of dealing with a major repair very easy and incredibly convenient. I see no reason to use any other mechanic.

Steven

14 years of experience
425 reviews
Steven
14 years of experience
Mercury Mountaineer V8-4.6L - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Goodyear, Arizona
Great to have Steve back out. Got the job done in a flash.

Michael

38 years of experience
135 reviews
Michael
38 years of experience
Mercury Mountaineer V6-4.0L - Brake Pads Replacement (Rear) - Cypress, California
Great

Excellent Rating

(228)

Rating Summary
216
6
1
1
4
216
6
1
1
4
Number of Mercury Mountaineer services completed
2508+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercury MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P3401 OBD-II Trouble Code: Cylinder 1 Deactivation Intake Valve Control Circuit Open
P3401 P3401 trouble code definition Cylinder 1 Deactivation Intake Valve Control Circuit Open What the P3401 code means P3401 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module (ECM) detecting that the intake control solenoid for cylinder number 1...
P0529 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fan Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0529 means the cooling fan sent an incorrect voltage signal, caused by open/shorted/corroded wiring, or a damaged fan motor/relay/speed sensor.
P1102 OBD-II Trouble Code: Mass Airflow Sensor in Range But Lower Than Expected
P1102 means the mass airflow sensor is not working properly, likely due to a bad connection in the sensor, an air leak, or a faulty sensor.

How Can I Prevent My Car Battery From Dying?

The battery has a limited lifespan of between two and five years (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-long-does-a-car-battery-last_2). A battery life can be shortened by lack of maintenance, leaving lights on and causing a discharge, charging system problems, or defective cables (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/service-battery-cables). A battery is...

Getting error codes P0599 and P0171. Ive cleaned the O2 sensors but have no idea where to go from here.

Hello. Code P0599 is the code for an issue with the thermostat heater control circuit, while P0171 is for a lean condition on bank 1. P0599 is set when the computer detects that there is an issue with the electronically...

Need to replace clutch but also looks like bell housing cracked around the starter to transmission?

Hello there. Clutch replacement in your 2006 Dodge Dakota is a large job. To replace the clutch, many components such as the transmission and driveshaft must be removed. If you are unsure at all about doing this job, it should...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com