Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMG Clutch is not working Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(5,730)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(5,730)

Clutch is not working Inspection Service

How much does a Clutch is not working Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMG Clutch is not working Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2020 Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMGL6-3.0L Turbo HybridService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2019 Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMGL6-3.0L Turbo HybridService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2022 Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMGL6-3.0L Turbo HybridService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2021 Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMGL6-3.0L Turbo HybridService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
Show example Mercedes-Benz CLS53 AMG Clutch is not working Inspection prices

While most vehicles out on the road today are automatics, there are still quite a few manual transmissions cruising the streets. When it comes to a manual transmission, one of the most important components is the clutch. Clutches that are well maintained and cared for can last up to 80,000 miles but an abused clutch can start to fail after a mere 35,000 miles.

The clutch is essential to the safe operation of the vehicle and a malfunctioning clutch can quickly damage other transmission parts, which will greatly increase the cost of the repair. Clutch problems should be addressed as soon as the first signs of trouble appear.

How this system works:

The clutch system transmits engine power to the gearbox and also allows the transmission to be interrupted during gear change. The main components of the clutch system include the master cylinder, a slave cylinder, flywheel, and an operating linkage.

The majority of vehicles use a friction clutch that is operated by hydraulic fluid or a cable. A flywheel connects to the engine and the clutch plate connects to the transmission. The clutch is engaged when the pedal is not being depressed. The springs push the pressure plate against the flywheel, which locks the transmission to the engine.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch disengages. An arm pushes a release bearing against the center of the spring, which releases the clamping pressure.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Malfunctioning Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder: A clutch master cylinder has a reservoir that holds brake fluid. The master cylinder is connected to the slave cylinder via hoses. As the clutch pedal is depressed, brake fluid moves from the master cylinder to the slave, which applies pressure to engage the clutch. Both the master and slave cylinders have seals that can wear out which will cause a leak. A leak will eventually lead to a clutch malfunction. Common symptoms of a failing master or slave clutch cylinder include the clutch going all the way to the floor, not being able to shift gears and a brake fluid leak.

  • Clutch Fluid Leak: Clutch fluid is actually just brake fluid. A leak in the system will make it hard to change gears and the clutch pedal may go all the way to the floor. The may also be a puddle of brake floor on the garage floor. A fluid leak is often a symptom of a more serious problem.

  • Slipping Clutch: Clutches are designed to slip a bit when the clutch is first engaged or during gear change to provide a smooth ride but once the clutch is fully engaged there shouldn’t be any slippage. In most cases, slipping will happen while the vehicle is hauling a load or when going up a hill. Slipping can cause the clutch to get hot, which can result in burned clutch facings, which can damage the flywheel and pressure plate. Normal wear and tear is usually the cause of a slipping clutch. The problem should be addressed as soon as the first symptoms appear to avoid additional damage.

  • Chattering or Jerky Clutch: A grabby or jerky clutch is often caused by oil or grease that has gotten on the clutch linings. A warped flywheel or a loose clutch cover can also cause this problem.

  • Air in Hydraulic Line: If there is air in the hydraulic line it will take up space that the fluid needs to build the proper pressure. This can result in a sticking clutch.

  • Misadjusted linkage: The linkage that connects the pedal to the clutch system can become misadjusted. A sticking clutch is often a sign of this problem. The linkage will need to be adjusted to correct this problem.

  • Broken Clutch Cable: The clutch cable can end up stretched or broken. If this is the case the clutch will often stick. The cable will need to be replaced.

  • Clutch Will Not Release: There are many things that can cause a clutch to not release. Everything from the damaged input shaft splines to a worn bearing retainer to a bent clutch disk. A vehicle that has a clutch that will not release should be inspected as soon as possible as not repairing it will lead to further damage.

  • Hard Clutch: If the clutch feels hard or stiff there is a good chance there is a problem with the pedal linkage or the clutch cable.

What to expect:

A top-­rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the clutch issue, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How important is this service?

The clutch is integral to a smooth working transmission and even one malfunctioning part can have drastic affects on the rest of the clutch system as well as the transmission. Clutch issues should be repaired as quickly as possible.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(5,730)

Rating Summary
5,332
192
54
29
123
5,332
192
54
29
123

Tagharchi

23 years of experience
81 reviews
Tagharchi
23 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz SLK230 L4-2.3L Turbo - Clutch is not working - Oceanside, California
Kevin was awesome. Gave us the answers we were looking for and much more. I will recommend him to friends as well as your service

Kingsley

14 years of experience
33 reviews
Kingsley
14 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz GLK350 V6-3.5L - Brake Pads Replacement (Rear) - Arlington, Texas
great polite competent

Grzegorz

41 years of experience
473 reviews
Grzegorz
41 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz ML350 V6-3.5L - Oil Change - San Francisco, California
Great job - Good timing - Expert!

Andy

30 years of experience
27 reviews
Andy
30 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz CLK350 V6-3.5L - Transmission Fluid Service - West Roxbury, Massachusetts
Andy arrived as scheduled and explained various aspects for the car that I had questions about. He was courteous and efficient. I would recommend Andy

Excellent Rating

(5,730)

Rating Summary
5,332
192
54
29
123
5,332
192
54
29
123
Number of Mercedes-Benz services completed
63030+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercedes-Benz MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Long Does an Auxiliary Battery Last?
When When a dual battery system is added to a vehicle, it is usually because accessories have been added to the vehicle that are not factory-standard, and the primary battery in the vehicle does not deliver sufficient power to drive...
C1100 OBD-II Trouble Code: ABS Pump Switch Circuit Failure
Trouble code C1100 means the engine control unit (ECU) has registered an unspecified circuit failure in the ABS pump switch circuit.
P0390 OBD-II Trouble Code: Camshaft Position Sensor “B” Circuit (Bank 2)
Trouble code P0390 means the PCM does not detect the camshaft position sensor B signal and is very similar to trouble code P0345.

Error messages pop up when driving and triggers car jerks

Although a number of different things could be causing this issue, I would say the most likely cause would be an issue with the steering angle sensor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-steering-angle-sensor). The steering angle sensor is the only part I can think of...

My DPFE sensor burned up. What do you think caused this and will it do a new one the same way?

Hi and thanks for contacting YourMechanic. The delta pressure feedback of EGR (DPFE (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/egr-pressure-feedback-sensor-replacement)) sensor was burned up for having too much back pressure on the engine. A plugged catalytic converter (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/catalytic-converter-replacement) or a plugged exhaust muffler will cause the...

STOP fuse blows when I shift out of park.

It sounds like you have a failure in your neutral safety switch. This switch normally prevents the operation of the shifter unless the key is in the on position and the brake pedal is depressed. I would recommend having your...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com