Mazda Navajo Battery is dead Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(9)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(9)

Battery is dead Inspection Service

How much does a Battery is dead Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda Navajo Battery is dead Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1991 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1992 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1994 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1993 Mazda NavajoV6-4.0LService typeBattery is dead InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
Show example Mazda Navajo Battery is dead Inspection prices

While your engine is mechanical, it needs electricity to operate. Electric spark is used to ignite fuel in the combustion chamber, turning the engine over. While the alternator provides the electricity necessary to run the car during operation, the battery is responsible for cranking the car. If your battery is dead, then the car won’t start and you’re essentially dead in the water.

How this system works:

Car batteries are crucial things – they’re responsible for providing the charge to turn over the ignition and crank the engine. Batteries operate based on a chemical reaction – acid and lead in the battery create a chemical reaction, which is then turned into an electric charge and stored in charging plates within the battery itself.

When you turn the ignition switch, several things happen, but all of them require voltage from the battery. When the ignition is switched to on, electricity is sent to the main relay, and from there to the fuel pump (which sends gasoline to the engine for ignition), and the car’s computer. The battery also produces electricity to feed the spark plugs, which ignite the fuel, and turn your car’s starter, which is responsible for actually turning the engine over and essentially jump-starting the combustion process. If your battery is dead, none of those things will happen. Depending on the amount of “juice” left in the battery, you may have just enough power to turn on a few dash lights, or you may not even have enough for that.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Dead Battery: Batteries have a finite lifespan. Most last five years or so, while other batteries are heavy-duty and rated for more than this. All will eventually die and need to be replaced. This is a normal part of vehicle maintenance, and your battery, starter and alternator should be tested regularly to ensure that you’re not stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.

  • Car Lights Left On: With the advent of smarter automotive technology, this has become rarer, but it still occurs. If your car’s lights don’t have an automatic shutoff feature, they’ll stay on unless you physically turn them off. If this happens and the engine isn’t running, they’ll pull power straight from the battery, eventually killing it.

  • Door Not Fully Closed: If your door is open, then the dome light will be on, and other interior lights may also be on. These lights draw their power from the battery if the engine isn’t running, and can quickly drain a battery.

  • Dead Alternator: The alternator produces electricity while the engine is running, and is responsible for providing all the power needed for your engine, your accessories, and to recharge the battery. If the alternator dies, it won’t charge the battery, and all the power needs of your vehicle will come straight from the battery. Eventually, this will drain it completely, leaving you stranded.

  • Bad Starter: It might not be the battery that’s the problem – if your starter has turned its last, your car won’t crank either. Again, regular maintenance can help predict starter failure.

  • Failed Main Relay: Sometimes, everything in the charging system is perfectly fine, but your car still won’t crank. In this instance, the first suspect should be the main relay, since it controls the fuel pump and the car’s computer.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to check the condition of your battery, starter, alternator and other important components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will first check the charge on your battery to determine if it is actually dead (bad cell), or if it only needs to be recharged. A jump-start may be all that is required. The mechanic will also check the alternator, starter and other important components to ensure that you can get back on the road safely.

How important is this service?

If your battery is dead, you’re going nowhere fast. The best protection against this is to have your battery, starter and alternator inspected regularly. However, if you’ve been stranded with a dead battery, one of our professional mechanics can help.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mazda mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mazda owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
9
0
0
0
0
9
0
0
0
0

Theodore

16 years of experience
1634 reviews
Theodore
16 years of experience
Mazda Protege L4-2.0L - Battery is dead - Renton, Washington
Woke up on a Sunday and my car could not start. Theodore showed up that day in a matter of hours, diagnosed and fixed the problem. would recommend

Cesar

9 years of experience
292 reviews
Cesar
9 years of experience
Mazda 3 L4-2.5L - Battery is dead - Bellevue, Washington
Cesar is a great mechanic. He was quick to help and very knowledgeable. I would use him again.

Juan

9 years of experience
338 reviews
Juan
9 years of experience
Mazda 3 L4-2.0L - Battery is dead - Durham, North Carolina
Effective and competent

Christopher

20 years of experience
318 reviews
Christopher
20 years of experience
Mazda 3 L4-2.0L - Battery is dead - Tampa, Florida
Experience was overall great.

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
9
0
0
0
0
9
0
0
0
0
Number of Mazda Battery is dead Inspection services completed
99+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mazda MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Long Does a Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Last?
The The transfer case output shaft seal is located on the transfer case of vehicles with four-wheel drive. This transfer case allows you to switch between two-wheel drive, neutral, to, low four-wheel, and drive four-wheel drive. The case consists of...
P3483 OBD-II Trouble Code: Cylinder 11 Deactivation/Intake Valve Control Circuit Low
P3483 code means that the intake control solenoid for the #11 cylinder is open, shorted or pushing back with a lot of resistance due to a short.
How to Install an LCD Monitor in Your Car
Monitors are installed in the console, mounted on the ceiling, or wired into the headrests of a car. LCD monitors provide entertainment or GPS help.

How Are Car Mirrors Used Correctly?

Automotive mirrors (https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/how-are-car-mirrors-used-correctly) are one of the most crucial aids used in safe driving. When properly adjusted, they allow the driver to quickly see objects and other vehicles that are around you without turning your head or losing focus on...

Front axle thunks when turning

That does sound like the problem. The u-joints spin with the wheel all the time on your Jeep. Do not delay the repair for too long. If the u-joint fails, it can cause more damage and possibly lock the wheel,...

Where is the fuel temp. Sensor located, in a 2007 Ford escape 4wheel drive

The fuel rail pressure temperature (FRPT) sensor is located on the fuel rail. Without knowing what engine your vehicle is equipped with (2.3 L, 2.3 L hybrid, or 3.0 L), it would be hard to tell you exactly where in...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com