Lexus RC300 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(4,563)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(4,563)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Lexus RC300 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2018 Lexus RC300V6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2021 Lexus RC300L4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2019 Lexus RC300V6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2018 Lexus RC300L4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2022 Lexus RC300V6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2020 Lexus RC300V6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2022 Lexus RC300L4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2016 Lexus RC300V6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.94 - $131.39
Show example Lexus RC300 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Lexus mechanics

Real customer reviews from Lexus owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(4,563)

Rating Summary
4,300
131
35
19
78
4,300
131
35
19
78

Kevin

24 years of experience
550 reviews
Kevin
24 years of experience
Lexus RC300 V6-3.5L - Oil Change - Alpharetta, Georgia
He arrived early, performed my oil change quickly, and was very professional throughout.

Nathaniel

16 years of experience
101 reviews
Nathaniel
16 years of experience
Lexus RX350 V6-3.5L - Oil Change - Lithia Springs, Georgia
He was early for the appointment and very professional.I will be using the service again and recommending my friends also,Thanks.

Frederick

16 years of experience
54 reviews
Frederick
16 years of experience
Lexus RX300 V6-3.0L - Spark Plugs - Castro Valley, California

Shaun

16 years of experience
238 reviews
Shaun
16 years of experience
Lexus RX350 V6-3.5L - Shock Absorber Replacement (Rear) - San Jose, California
Fast/clean work. The car is running good so far. He finished the job in 45 minutes instead of 2.5 hours estimated by YourMechanic.com, which is way off.

Excellent Rating

(4,563)

Rating Summary
4,300
131
35
19
78
4,300
131
35
19
78
Number of Lexus services completed
50193+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Lexus MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

What is a Certified Pre-Owned Vehicle?
Certified Pre-Owned or CPO cars are used cars that have been inspected and warrantied by the manufacturer. CPO programs cover car problems or defects.
How to Replace a Car Throttle Cable
Throttle cables link the accelerator pedal to the throttle plate. This cable opens the throttle and lets air into the engine for acceleration.
B1873 OBD-II Trouble Code: Turn Signal / Hazard Power Feed Circuit Short to Ground
B1873 means there is an issue with the circuit involving the turn signal and hazard light power feed, likely due to a damaged electrical component.

Car not changing gears

The first thing to check is the fluid level. Your car does not have a dipstick, it will need to be jacked up to do this. Is your Check Engine Light on? Some transmission trouble codes will put it in...

Car keeps stalling car, I think it's the fuel pump

Hello - I applaud your diagnostic skills! You have certainly identified a classic failure mode of a fuel pump with extended mileage such as yours. Your fuel pump is located in the tank and is cooled by the gasoline there....

Rough idle and sputters while driving

Hey there. This is a common sign of a failing idle air control valve (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/idle-control-valve-replacement). The idle air control valve monitors the air intake as it is mixed with fuel prior to being injected into the engine. This valve is...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com