Jeep Liberty Steering wheel feels loose Inspection at your home or office.

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Steering wheel feels loose Inspection Service

How much does a Steering wheel feels loose Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Jeep Liberty Steering wheel feels loose Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2005 Jeep LibertyL4-2.4LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2010 Jeep LibertyV6-3.7LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2012 Jeep LibertyV6-3.7LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2004 Jeep LibertyV6-3.7LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2002 Jeep LibertyL4-2.4LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2004 Jeep LibertyL4-2.4LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2003 Jeep LibertyL4-2.4LService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2005 Jeep LibertyL4-2.8L Turbo DieselService typeSteering wheel feels loose InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Jeep Liberty Steering wheel feels loose Inspection prices

A steering wheel that feels loose or has “play” in it prevents the driver form getting an accurate interpretation of how the wheels are turned. Any steering setup where you can move the wheel more than one to one and a half inches without moving the wheels is too lose and may have an issue. When the steering wheel feels loose it can be difficult from drivers to accurately know the position of the front wheels. This lack of responsiveness can be dangerous for drivers, especially in heavy traffic or winding roads.

How this system works:

The majority of modern vehicles use two different kinds of steering setup to help control the movement of the car. Rack and pinion steering is typically used on cars, small trucks and SUVs, while recirculating-ball steering is used on large SUVs and trucks. The similarities and differences in the two systems begin to manifest themselves when components fail, causing the steering wheel to feel loose.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Tie Rods: Tie rods serve as the driver’s connection between the steering unit and the tires. Tie rods are present in both rack and pinion and recirculating ball setups. If tie rod ends become worn, they may cause the steering wheel to feel loose. A vehicle with worn tie rods may also squeak as the steering wheel is turned and be out of alignment.

  • Worn Pitman Arm: A pitman arm is only present in vehicles with recirculating-ball steering. The pitman arm connects a gear attached to the steering wheel to the steering rack itself. When the pitman arm becomes worn or the teeth in the gear connecting the pitman arm begin to slip, it can cause the steering wheel to feel loose.

  • Worn Ball Joint: Ball joints connect the vehicle’s wheel hubs to the rest of the suspension components. Depending on the vehicle, one or two ball joints per wheel and may or may not be load bearing. A ball joint that is worn may cause the steering to feel loose and may also create a banging sound, especially when going over bumps.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the reason for the loose-feeling steering. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report outlining the reason for the loose steering and the cost of any repairs that need to be made.

How it's done:

When the mechanic arrives, he or she will first lift the vehicle and remove the wheels so that they can better access the suspension and steering components. From here, the mechanic will be able to assess the reason why the steering has become loose.

If the mechanic suspects that worn tie rods may be the issue, he or she will inspect the tie rod for superficial damage. If the tie rod end had become worn or loose, the mechanic will remove it and replace it with a new one. The mechanic will also ensure after installation, that the new tie rod end is properly lubricated.

If the mechanic believes that the pitman arm has become worn, he or she will remove the pitman arm from the track bar and replace it with a new pitman arm. The mechanic should ensure that the new part is properly tightened.

If the mechanic suspects worn ball joints, he or she will remove the control arm(s) in order to access the faulty ball joint. He or she will then remove the old ball joint and replace it with a new one. The mechanic should also ensure that the new ball joint is properly lubricated in order to ensure longer life.

In the case of all repairs the mechanic will make sure that all the new parts have been installed correctly and are properly lubricated. In order to ensure that the steering is working properly, the mechanic may test drive the vehicle to check for excess play.

How important is this service?

A steering wheel that feels loose may not be giving an accurate indication of the front wheel’s position. Loose-feeling steering may also indicate that a problem has occurred with the steering unit or suspension. If you notice that the steering does not seem to be as responsive, you should stop driving the vehicle and have it inspected by a mechanic.

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Rating Summary
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857
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6
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Anthony

33 years of experience
79 reviews
Anthony
33 years of experience
Jeep Liberty V6-3.7L - Fuel Pump - Fayetteville, Georgia
Professional mechanic. Job performed satisfactorily! Polite.

Theodore

16 years of experience
1592 reviews
Theodore
16 years of experience
Jeep Liberty V6-3.7L - Water Pump - Everett, Washington
Honest and trustworthy. Does a great job on our vehicles and the price is reasonable.

Brandon

18 years of experience
275 reviews
Brandon
18 years of experience
Jeep Liberty V6-3.7L - ABS Light is on - Snellville, Georgia
Brandon was very professional and nice. He explained what he was doing and gave me the total of the charges before he began. If or when I have another problem with my vehicle I will contact Brandon.

Theodore

16 years of experience
1592 reviews
Theodore
16 years of experience
Jeep Liberty V6-3.7L - Water Pump - Woodinville, Washington
Theodore was on time and willing to answer any questions I had about the process. His service was fast, friendly and exactly what I was looking for

Excellent Rating

(916)

Rating Summary
857
32
6
7
14
857
32
6
7
14
Number of Jeep Liberty services completed
10076+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Jeep MECHANICS
1300+
experts on our platform

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I just replaced the rear [struts](/topics-strut/) on my 98 [camry](/topics-camry/), they were monroe quick struts and I replaced them with the same, the old ones were around 8 years old and the suspension needed replacing, i just finished installing everything, i torqued everything to proper spec except the upper mount inside the car, can't get a torque wrench in there because its so tight and can't use a socket to tighten, had to use a combination wrench but I did get them tight, originally after installing before driving I heard squeaks when depressing the suspension but I wasn't so worried about that because they're brand new and haven't been depressed before, now after driving around the neighborhood with windows open listening for sounds I strained to hear anything but there wasn't anything over the sound of the car. After parking I hear a clunking sound after depressing one side of the car. I also replaced the stabilizer end links and the stabilizer bushings, the end links were really difficult to tighten, especially with a torque wrench but theyre at least at 25 ft/lbs which is the spec I found online, kind of concerned about that as well because I found a one off quote for the spec at 60 ft/lbs which I don't think is likely to be correct because in order to tighten you've got to grab this tiny round bolt housing on the ball joint in order to tighten and the tighter you want to get the tighter you need to squeeze on the round housing. Finally I'm a little concerned the stabilizer bar isn't centered, i mean it seems that way and it was difficult to get the clips around the new bushing back on, as in they really only fit one way and it was tough getting them threaded in the first place without a bunch of adjustment. I'm wondering what that clunking sound is, how to diagnose it, how to fix it, and anything else that could be an issue after the replacement.

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