Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(8)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(8)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1991 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-7.3L DieselService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1981 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-5.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonL6-4.9LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1991 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-7.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1986 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-7.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1980 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-6.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1988 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-5.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1985 Ford E-250 Econoline Club WagonV8-5.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ford mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ford owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(8)

Rating Summary
7
1
0
0
0
7
1
0
0
0

Henry

34 years of experience
175 reviews
Henry
34 years of experience
Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon L6-4.9L - Air Shocks Replacement (Front) - Clayton, New Jersey
Henry always gets right to work. he does a great job!

Robert

23 years of experience
253 reviews
Robert
23 years of experience
Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon V8-5.8L - Electric Problems Inspection - Crosby, Texas
Very knowledgeable. Confirmed what I felt was the problem. I was a bit disappointed that the repair could not be accomplished at my home and suggested I take truck to electrical repair shop.

Gustavo

20 years of experience
75 reviews
Gustavo
20 years of experience
Ford F-250 Super Duty V8-7.3L Turbo Diesel - Loud noise is coming from rear brakes - San Antonio, Texas
Gustavo arrived ahead of schedule. He was very professional and courteous. Patiently and thoroughly answered all of my questions. I may have found the last mechanic I will ever need!

Nathan

21 years of experience
298 reviews
Nathan
21 years of experience
Ford Windstar V6-3.8L - Loud noise is coming from rear brakes - Austin, Texas
ok

Excellent Rating

(8)

Rating Summary
7
1
0
0
0
7
1
0
0
0
Number of Ford Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection services completed
88+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ford MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Register a Car in Iowa
Moving Moving to a new area can be a bit of a stressful situation due to the wide variety of things that have to be handled when attempting to get settled in. For new residents to the state of Iowa,...
P0236 OBD-II Trouble Code: Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0236 code definition Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance What the P0236 code means P0236 is an OBD-II generic code that is...
P0748 OBD-II Trouble Code: Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0748 code means fluid pressure does not match the expected measurements due to low, dirty or contaminated transmission fluid, or hydraulic clogs.

Chirping noise when I accelerate

This may be related to a failing power steering pump (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/power-steering-pump-replacement) or low power steering fluid (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/power-steering-fluid-service) levels. As you may know, the power steering system uses a pump, normally driven by a belt. The pump supplies pressure as it...

Vehicle won't shift into 4th. High rpm at 60 and won't shift but get a pcv code

Too much air flowing into the intake causes the engine to lean out, as a result of too much air in relation to the fuel and misfire. At an idle, the PCV valve restricts air flow, to reduce this problem....

Loud humming noise coming from the front end, gets louder the faster you go. If I turn to the right while driving the sound goes away until I straighten back up. When I turn left, the noise doesn't change at all. I have jacked up both sides in front and there is no play in the wheels. Also while jacked up I put it in nutreul and the passenger wheel turns freely but feels like a little bit more resistance then drivers side.

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com