Dodge D150 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(9)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(9)

Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection Service

How much does a Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Dodge D150 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1979 Dodge D150L6-3.7LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1980 Dodge D150V8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1977 Dodge D150V8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1989 Dodge D150V8-5.2LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1987 Dodge D150L6-3.7LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1993 Dodge D150V6-3.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1978 Dodge D150L6-4.0L DieselService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1993 Dodge D150V8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Dodge D150 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection prices

Your car’s engine makes quite a racket. Some sounds are music to the ears like the exhaust note of a finely tuned V12. (Some manufacturers have resorted to placing speakers under the dash to simulate the sound.) On the other hand, some are cries for help, such as the jolt of a backfire, the snake-like hiss of a ruptured hose, or the incessant tapping of a defective lifter.

Common reasons for this to happen:

Here’s a guide to engine noises and some potential causes.

Whirring

Description: A vibrating or buzzing, much like the sound a window fan makes when turned on.

Cause: A whirring sound that changes in relation to engine speed could indicate trouble brewing under the hood. There are a myriad of possible causes, typically on belt driven accessories or the belt(s) themselves. Your mechanic will start by listening to the bearings of your alternator, idler, and tensioner pulleys. If no problem is found, the water pump is a likely culprit.

Hissing, Gurgling, and/or Sizzling

Description: Hissing sounds like air or steam escaping from a pipe or hose. Sizzling is like a slice of bacon in a hot griddle.

Cause: These three sounds often go hand-in-hand with an overheating engine. The hissing means your cooling system has possibly developed a leak. Gurgling sounds like a coffee pot percolating, and is the result of coolant boiling (which is abnormal in a properly operating system). Sizzling is the result of that coolant or oil landing on a heated engine component like, say, the exhaust manifold. The best course of action is to pull over as soon as safely possible, let the engine cool down and call a mechanic. If the car isn’t overheating but is still hissing, other possible maladies include a clogged exhaust and catalytic converter, but these are usually associated with more noticeable problems driving.

Loud Exhaust Note

Description: We are not talking about a throaty, grumbling, wonderfully musical exhaust note. No. We are talking about loud noises that occur unintentionally and suddenly.

Cause: The most likely perpetrator here will be a broken muffler or exhaust pipe. If a loss in performance accompanies that noise, then the problem is likely something deeper, possibly a cracked exhaust manifold or broken catalytic converter.

Backfires

Description: A blast from an M-80. Technically, a backfire is fuel detonating outside the combustion chamber. It can occur in either the intake system or the exhaust system, depending on the cause.

Cause: The most common is moisture or water in the fuel system. While your car’s gas tank may be tightly sealed, H2O can still seep in as the result of condensation caused by changes in humidity and/or dramatic swings in outside temperatures. The fuel filter should remove it, but some water can get by, especially if the filter is old. An unbalanced air-to-fuel mixture is the suspect of interest here, and may be from leaky vacuum hoses or a malfunctioning air intake valve.

Sputtering

Description: Imagine a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. The engine indiscriminately loses power, or rpms fluctuate, as the driver accelerates.

Cause: An incomplete combustion event. While this doesn’t sound dire, it can cause serious damage to other engine components, specifically catalytic converters. On 1996 and later models, a misfire will typically be accompanied by a flashing check engine light.. Have the technician check the ignition system, not just simply replace the spark plugs. This includes examining the ignition coil, rotor, cap, and wires (if so equipped).

A blocked or malfunctioning fuel injector will also cause your car to sputter. In some cases, it may be accompanied by a steady clicking sound.

Tapping or Clicking

Description: Imagine the sound made by a watch's movement or a ratcheting wrench. It’s a metallic tick, as though someone is striking the inside of the engine block with a metal stick in a rhythmic manner.

Cause: When tapping is engine related, it is usually more pronounced at idle, and increases in speed with engine RPM.. It may disappear at high speeds. In this case, it is probably upper valve train or tappet noise caused by either low oil pressure, excessive valve clearance or a defective hydraulic valve lifter.

The most common cause -- and easiest to remedy -- is that the engine is low on oil. Another answer is that there is some blockage in the system. Culprits could include a worn or damaged oil pump or a clogged oil filter. If you haven't had your oil and filter changed in a while, consider doing so immediately.

If it's not an oil issue, it's potentially related to the valve train, as we stated above; i.e., a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valve train components.

Spark Knocking (Preignition)

Description: A light, metallic knocking sound, usually under acceleration.

Cause: Knocking is most commonly attributed to improper ignition timing, lean air/fuel ratio, overheating, or improper fuel octane level.

It's a common misconception that there are benefits to using a higher-octane gasoline in your vehicle than the owner's manual specifies; however, using a lower-grade fuel can very well produce engine knock.

Bearing Knock

Description: Bearing knock is typically a deeper tone, directly related to engine RPM.

Cause: It is typically associated with excessive main bearing clearance (a regular, rumble-like knock), worn connecting rod bearings (sharp, irregular knock).Bearing knocks usually involve labor-intensive repairs. The good news is, regularly performed preventative maintenance (oil and filter changes) will typically prevent bearing damage from occurring for the life of your vehicle.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the engine or exhaust noise, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will typically begin by listening to identify the general source of the noise. In the case of potential belt or accessory noise, a stethoscope is used while the engine is running to listen to individual bearings under load. A noise that has a corresponding drivability concern (misfire, preignition), will usually be approached with a scanner or code reader, to determine which electrical system may be malfunctioning. Internal engine noises (knock, tick) will almost always begin by checking the engine oil level. If the oil level and condition are acceptable, a more extensive disassembly may be required.

How important is this service?

Given that a noise can indicate a minor or major issue, it's wise to book a mechanic to perform an inspection as soon as possible and learn promptly what's at the root of the engine or exhaust noise.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Dodge mechanics

Real customer reviews from Dodge owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
8
1
0
0
0
8
1
0
0
0

Michael

4 years of experience
233 reviews
Michael
4 years of experience
Dodge D150 L6-3.7L - Car is not starting - Indianapolis, Indiana
He is on time to show up and knowledge well about motors etc.. wish that he could point and show where it was because I’m deaf but he did figured out to start up running again.. it nice to someone come and fix in my garage than send to shop.. it really simple.. thanks

Andrew

15 years of experience
506 reviews
Andrew
15 years of experience
Dodge D150 V8-5.2L - Car is not starting - Oregon City, Oregon
Super helpful, great guy!

Pardeep

21 years of experience
1078 reviews
Pardeep
21 years of experience
Dodge D150 L6-3.7L - Valve cover gasket is leaking - San Jose, California
Pardeep arrived early, was very professional and he had obvious expertise and experience. Pardeep quickly diagnosed the problem with my vehicle.

Deane

11 years of experience
340 reviews
Deane
11 years of experience
Dodge D150 V6-3.9L - Windshield Wiper Linkage Replacement (Front) - San Diego, California
Courteous. Professional. Timely. This is my second visit from Deane and I would request him again in the future. Great job, great attitude!!!

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
8
1
0
0
0
8
1
0
0
0
Number of Dodge D150 services completed
99+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Dodge MECHANICS
1400+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Can I Prevent My Car Battery From Dying?
Your Your car battery is one of the most important parts of your car’s electrical system. Without the battery, your car simply isn’t going to work. Your battery works hard, and eventually, it’s going to wear out. So, how long...
How to Buy a Good Quality License Plate Light
Whether Whether you are replacing a license plate light, or adding one to your vehicle to be sure that your license plate is visible in all sorts of weather, buying a good quality license plate light can be simple. Cops...
How Long Does a Battery Temperature Sensor Last?
Most Most people fail to realize just how sensitive the charging system on their car is. If all of the components of your charging system are not working properly, then it will be nearly impossible to crank and run the...

How do I use the power outlet?

The power outlets can be used to charge electronic devices or plug in any accessory with a 12 V if it runs on less than 10 amps. One power outlet is located on the center display in the auxiliary box....

Hit a gutter and busted my tire, but it started leaking on the driver's side. What's the problem?

Hello. It may have possible that you ran over something and it punctured the drivers side tire (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-put-a-patch-on-a-punctured-tire-by-jason-unrau) at or near the same time you hit the gutter on the passenger side. In order to find a leak in a...

My car was recently in an accident, it was repaired but the insurance did not fix it completely. The shop that fixed the body of car was on the approved listing so we took the car their on their recommendation. They said that the code for the gas gauge is something to do with fuel sensor.

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com