Dodge B350 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(15)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(15)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Dodge B350 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1989 Dodge B350V8-5.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1993 Dodge B350V8-5.9LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1989 Dodge B350V8-5.9LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1984 Dodge B350V8-5.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1985 Dodge B350V8-5.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1990 Dodge B350V8-5.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1988 Dodge B350V8-5.2LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1994 Dodge B350V8-5.9LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Dodge B350 Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Dodge mechanics

Real customer reviews from Dodge owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(15)

Rating Summary
14
0
1
0
0
14
0
1
0
0

Andrew

15 years of experience
516 reviews
Andrew
15 years of experience
Dodge B350 V8-5.2L - Universal Joint (U-joint) - Camas, Washington
Showed up earlier and did the replacement right away. Easy to work with, nice guy. I haven’t been able to test drive yet.

Chris

22 years of experience
2239 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Dodge B350 V8-5.9L - Check Engine Light is on - Garden Grove, California
Excellent service. I have used Chris several times. I have no complaints.

Chris

16 years of experience
419 reviews
Chris
16 years of experience
Dodge B350 V8-5.9L - Starter - South San Francisco, California
Chris did an excellent job. Showed up on time, with the proper parts and did a great job.

Tien

23 years of experience
903 reviews
Tien
23 years of experience
Dodge B350 V8-5.2L - Oil Change - Hayward, California
Tien was very helpful

Excellent Rating

(15)

Rating Summary
14
0
1
0
0
14
0
1
0
0
Number of Dodge B350 services completed
165+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Dodge MECHANICS
1400+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing AC Compressor Belt
If the belt has cracking on the ribs, chunks missing, or abrasions on the back or sides, your AC compressor belt may need replacing.
P2297 OBD-II Trouble Code: O2 Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration Bank 1 Sensor 1
P2297 P2297 code definition O2 Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration Bank 1 Sensor 1 (May be seen with other oxygen sensor codes) What the P2297 code means P2297 means that the oxygen sensor (O2) has out of range sensor...
P2284 OBD-II Trouble Code: Injector Control Press Sensor Circuit Range / Performance
P2284 means the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has bad readings from the injector control pressure circuit, often due to low oil level or pressure.

Clunking noise when put into gear, rough shifiting

Hey there. Thanks for writing in about your 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300D. This sounds like the differential bushings could be worn. I would also check for vacuum leaks. There is a component called a vacuum switchover valve that helps to control...

Rattle when cold engine - 2006 Ford Mustang

Hello. This could be a variety of many things and may be difficult to pinpoint without physically inspecting the car. Many cars tend to have small or subtle vibrations and rattles as fasteners, nuts, and bolts become loose over time....

Serious air pressure is coming out of my oil stick and oil cap. The car squeaks until I pull out the oil stick and air comes out

Hello there, thanks for writing in. A few different faults can cause your 2006 Infiniti M45 To have a pressure buildup in the engine. The most common would be a PCV valve (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-positive-crankcase-ventilation-pcv-valve), high oil pressure, or a vacuum leak....

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com