Chrysler LHS Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(28)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(28)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Chrysler LHS Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1997 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1995 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2000 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2001 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1999 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1994 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1996 Chrysler LHSV6-3.5LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
Show example Chrysler LHS Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Chrysler mechanics

Real customer reviews from Chrysler owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(28)

Rating Summary
26
0
1
0
1
26
0
1
0
1

Jeffrey

27 years of experience
870 reviews
Jeffrey
27 years of experience
Chrysler LHS V6-3.5L - AC is not working - Fort Mill, South Carolina
Jeff did a thorough examination of the issue, as well as other potential issues the car had. I will be having him back to do repairs on some of the other problems in a few weeks!

Behrak

9 years of experience
329 reviews
Behrak
9 years of experience
Chrysler LHS V6-3.5L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Upper Left, Front Upper Right) - Atlanta, Georgia
Thanks for the hard work...

Matthew

33 years of experience
1235 reviews
Matthew
33 years of experience
Chrysler LHS V6-3.5L - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Newport News, Virginia
I was very pleased with Matthew. He was very punctual and very friendly. The job was done in 2 1/2 hours, which was very good. My driveway was left clean just like when he came. He even saved me money by checking and doing only what needed to be done to my car. Thanks Matthew for a job well done! Very good service.

David

14 years of experience
103 reviews
David
14 years of experience
Chrysler LHS V6-3.5L - Car is overheating - Austin, Texas
great mechanic found out that all I needed was a fuse to fix a simple overheating problem had three of your "mechanics" and they could not see the obvious and David did.

Excellent Rating

(28)

Rating Summary
26
0
1
0
1
26
0
1
0
1
Number of Chrysler LHS services completed
308+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Chrysler MECHANICS
1200+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Renew Your Car Registration in Rhode Island
There There are a number of things that a person will have to do in the state of Rhode Island in order to drive legally. Among the most important things that you will need to do in order to stay...
P006A OBD-II Trouble Code: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) - Mass or Volume Air Flow Correlation
P006A means there is a signal correlation problem between the engine computer and MAF or MAP sensor, likely due to a faulty intake system or sensor.
How to Troubleshoot a Surge Caused by Car Air Conditioning
Car air conditioning can cause a surge in the car engine if belt have slipped, the throttle body is faulty, or the idle control valve needs replacing.

My car has a cracked fuel line

The fuel lines are plastic and it depends on the damage. Sometimes they can be repaired with a splice, but they may have to be replaced as an assembly to be done on a permanent basis and be covered under...

Brake light switch continuously fails

Hello. You may want to check the connections at the terminal as it is not uncommon for these to get very hot and melt the plastic inside and corrode. This may also be a rusty ground which can also cause...

squealing noise when I turn the wheel slightly while driving

Hi there. It may be, play in the wheel bearing hub assembly (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/wheel-hub-assembly-replacement) causing the squeal while turning a little to the left. It could also be, the brake pad wear indicator/sensor touching the brake rotor while turning a little...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com