Chrysler Daytona Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(5,253)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(5,253)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Chrysler Daytona Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1990 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1986 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.2L TurboService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1993 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.2L TurboService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1989 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.2L TurboService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1993 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1992 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.5L TurboService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1987 Chrysler DaytonaL4-2.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1991 Chrysler DaytonaV6-3.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Chrysler Daytona Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Chrysler mechanics

Real customer reviews from Chrysler owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(5,253)

Rating Summary
4,866
202
37
34
114
4,866
202
37
34
114

Yahshif

10 years of experience
128 reviews
Yahshif
10 years of experience
Chrysler Cirrus V6-2.5L - Brakes must be pumped to work - Long Beach, California
He was awesome and doesn't mind kids. Great mechanic!

Justin

20 years of experience
70 reviews
Justin
20 years of experience
Chrysler Pacifica V6-4.0L - Engine or Transmission Mount Replacement - San Antonio, Texas
Excellent Mechanic !!!

William

34 years of experience
569 reviews
William
34 years of experience
Chrysler Sebring V6-2.7L - Alternator - Peoria, Arizona
William was very prompt. Even showed up earlier than expected! HUGE PLUS! Professional and really knows his craft. Thank You William, i will be referring you to my friends.

John

27 years of experience
1057 reviews
John
27 years of experience
Chrysler 200 V6-3.6L - Brake fluid is leaking Inspection - Houston, Texas
Very professional, very prompt and very knowledgeable. Inspected vehicle while I was at work. He found the problem very quickly. Would definitely book him again.

Excellent Rating

(5,253)

Rating Summary
4,866
202
37
34
114
4,866
202
37
34
114
Number of Chrysler services completed
57783+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Chrysler MECHANICS
1200+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of Bad or Failing Brake Shoes (Rear)
If your car has drum brakes and there are abnormal noises, a reduced brake response, and a loose parking brake, you may need a brake shoe replacement.
How to Find Out Which License Plates are Available in Your State
When When you register your vehicle, you get a license plate. Unless you specify otherwise, you will get the standard, generic license plate for your state. However, most states have numerous options for fun, specialized license plates. Some of these...
How to Choose a Lift for Your Jeep Wrangler
The The Jeep Wrangler (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/a-buyer-s-guide-to-the-2012-jeep-wrangler) is easily the most off-road oriented vehicle you can buy from a dealership. All Jeep Wranglers come with four-wheel drive and a removable top. Their high ground clearance and short wheelbase allow them to navigate...

Car needs a new coolant bypass tube

Ah yes, the infamous 3.8L coolant elbows, located on the tensioner (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-belt-tensioners-work). This is a very common problem, but I would still perform a cooling system pressure test to be certain that the elbows are leaking. This test pressurizes the...

Why does my 2012 nissan altima Rev while engine is cold? It just started doing this with cold weather.

Modern vehicles have what we sometimes refer to as a "warm up program". The transmission will hold engine revs a bit higher until the engine warms up. This is to warm up the engine and catalytic converters faster for emissions...

My brakes hiss back at me

That hiss you hear is a vacuum leak. That leads to the hard brake pedal. Power brakes rely on vacuum to make braking easier. The vacuum leak has reduced vacuum within the brake booster and is making the brake pedal...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com