BMW M8 Clutch is not working Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(4)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(4)

Clutch is not working Inspection Service

How much does a Clutch is not working Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW M8 Clutch is not working Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2022 BMW M8V8-4.4L TurboService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
* BMW M8V8-4.4L TurboService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2020 BMW M8V8-4.4L TurboService typeClutch is not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example BMW M8 Clutch is not working Inspection prices

While most vehicles out on the road today are automatics, there are still quite a few manual transmissions cruising the streets. When it comes to a manual transmission, one of the most important components is the clutch. Clutches that are well maintained and cared for can last up to 80,000 miles but an abused clutch can start to fail after a mere 35,000 miles.

The clutch is essential to the safe operation of the vehicle and a malfunctioning clutch can quickly damage other transmission parts, which will greatly increase the cost of the repair. Clutch problems should be addressed as soon as the first signs of trouble appear.

How this system works:

The clutch system transmits engine power to the gearbox and also allows the transmission to be interrupted during gear change. The main components of the clutch system include the master cylinder, a slave cylinder, flywheel, and an operating linkage.

The majority of vehicles use a friction clutch that is operated by hydraulic fluid or a cable. A flywheel connects to the engine and the clutch plate connects to the transmission. The clutch is engaged when the pedal is not being depressed. The springs push the pressure plate against the flywheel, which locks the transmission to the engine.

When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch disengages. An arm pushes a release bearing against the center of the spring, which releases the clamping pressure.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Malfunctioning Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder: A clutch master cylinder has a reservoir that holds brake fluid. The master cylinder is connected to the slave cylinder via hoses. As the clutch pedal is depressed, brake fluid moves from the master cylinder to the slave, which applies pressure to engage the clutch. Both the master and slave cylinders have seals that can wear out which will cause a leak. A leak will eventually lead to a clutch malfunction. Common symptoms of a failing master or slave clutch cylinder include the clutch going all the way to the floor, not being able to shift gears and a brake fluid leak.

  • Clutch Fluid Leak: Clutch fluid is actually just brake fluid. A leak in the system will make it hard to change gears and the clutch pedal may go all the way to the floor. The may also be a puddle of brake floor on the garage floor. A fluid leak is often a symptom of a more serious problem.

  • Slipping Clutch: Clutches are designed to slip a bit when the clutch is first engaged or during gear change to provide a smooth ride but once the clutch is fully engaged there shouldn’t be any slippage. In most cases, slipping will happen while the vehicle is hauling a load or when going up a hill. Slipping can cause the clutch to get hot, which can result in burned clutch facings, which can damage the flywheel and pressure plate. Normal wear and tear is usually the cause of a slipping clutch. The problem should be addressed as soon as the first symptoms appear to avoid additional damage.

  • Chattering or Jerky Clutch: A grabby or jerky clutch is often caused by oil or grease that has gotten on the clutch linings. A warped flywheel or a loose clutch cover can also cause this problem.

  • Air in Hydraulic Line: If there is air in the hydraulic line it will take up space that the fluid needs to build the proper pressure. This can result in a sticking clutch.

  • Misadjusted linkage: The linkage that connects the pedal to the clutch system can become misadjusted. A sticking clutch is often a sign of this problem. The linkage will need to be adjusted to correct this problem.

  • Broken Clutch Cable: The clutch cable can end up stretched or broken. If this is the case the clutch will often stick. The cable will need to be replaced.

  • Clutch Will Not Release: There are many things that can cause a clutch to not release. Everything from the damaged input shaft splines to a worn bearing retainer to a bent clutch disk. A vehicle that has a clutch that will not release should be inspected as soon as possible as not repairing it will lead to further damage.

  • Hard Clutch: If the clutch feels hard or stiff there is a good chance there is a problem with the pedal linkage or the clutch cable.

What to expect:

A top-­rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the clutch issue, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How important is this service?

The clutch is integral to a smooth working transmission and even one malfunctioning part can have drastic affects on the rest of the clutch system as well as the transmission. Clutch issues should be repaired as quickly as possible.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(4)

Rating Summary
4
0
0
0
0
4
0
0
0
0

Joe

43 years of experience
822 reviews
Joe
43 years of experience
BMW M3 L6-3.2L - Clutch is not working - Indian Rocks Beach, Florida
Joe is awesome!

Derek

23 years of experience
71 reviews
Derek
23 years of experience
BMW 325xi L6-2.5L - Clutch is not working - Denver, Colorado
Very honest and a huge help.

Joseph

27 years of experience
578 reviews
Joseph
27 years of experience
BMW 330Ci L6-3.0L - Clutch is not working - Katy, Texas
Joseph was super informative on what possibilities could have happened to my clutch.

Kenneth

20 years of experience
781 reviews
Kenneth
20 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-2.5L - Clutch is not working - Beverly Hills, California
Always knowledgeable, polite

Excellent Rating

(4)

Rating Summary
4
0
0
0
0
4
0
0
0
0
Number of BMW Clutch is not working Inspection services completed
44+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Water Pump Pulley
Common signs include physical damage to the water pump pulley, extensive wear on the water pump, grinding sounds, and the engine overheating.
P2220 OBD-II Trouble Code: NOx Sensor Heater Control Circuit High Bank 2
P2220 P2220 code definition NOx Sensor Heater Control Circuit High Bank 2 What the P2220 code means P2220 is an OBD-II code for the engine control module (ECM) detecting the NOx sensor heater control circuit has a high voltage reading...
P0520 OBD-II Trouble Code: Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0520 means there is a problem with a circuit in the engine oil pressure sensor, likely due to the oil pressure switch being defective.

Transmission grinding when in gear.

Differential failure is a likely cause of this symptom. A faulty CV axle or transmission failure are also likely causes. I would recommend having your transmission and differential inspected by a professional to ensure all parts are working correctly.

I have a lighting bolt icon on my dashboard

When you overheated the engine the check engine light came on most likely for the engine is hot and the lightning bolt comes on indicating the throttle limit control is on. This means the engine is in failure mode and...

Car Loses Power And Puffs Out Large Amounts Of Black And Grey Smoke, First Backfire Was Very Loud, with sulfur/exhaust fumes smell.

Hello There, This is quite likely a sign of a failing or clogged catalytic converter. The catalytic converter converts toxic exhaust gases into less harmful pollutants that are suitable to be expelled into the atmosphere. When this is clogged, this...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com