Audi RS3 Electrical components are not working Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,458)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,458)

Electrical components are not working Inspection Service

How much does a Electrical components are not working Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi RS3 Electrical components are not working Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2019 Audi RS3L5-2.5L TurboService typeElectrical components are not working InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2018 Audi RS3L5-2.5L TurboService typeElectrical components are not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2017 Audi RS3L5-2.5L TurboService typeElectrical components are not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2020 Audi RS3L5-2.5L TurboService typeElectrical components are not working InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
Show example Audi RS3 Electrical components are not working Inspection prices

While the heart of your car might be mechanical, modern vehicles incorporate a significant number of electronic devices. From your turn signals to your radio, electrical components are everywhere. When they work properly, they’re invaluable in providing convenience, comfort and enjoyment. However, there can be problems here, and they can be mystifying.

How this system works:

The modern automotive electrical system is incredibly complex, requiring miles of wiring, transistors, resistors, solenoids, switches and more. However, the basic operation of the system is relatively easy to understand.

When you crank your car, the battery sends electricity to the starter and the spark plugs. However, once the engine is running, the battery’s role is done. The alternator now takes over. Think of the alternator as a generator – it generates electricity by spinning magnets within a winding of copper wire. That electricity is sent down miles of wires to operate various components in your car, as well as to burn fuel in the engine.

Each electrical component on your car has its own individual circuit, as well as operational controls (fuses, relays, solenoids, switches and the like). If any one of these controls were to fail, it’s possible that the component will not operate. Then there’s the possibility of wiring damage – this can cause single components to fail, or even the entire system to not operate properly.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Blown Fuse: Most of the smaller (less electricity intensive) components on your car require a fuse in order to operate. The fuse acts as a safeguard against voltage spikes. If too much electricity flows through the wires, the fuse blows, breaking the circuit.

  • Wiring Damage: Wiring damage has many causes, and it can happen almost anywhere in your vehicle. Rust and corrosion at a ground point can render a component inoperable, and rodent damage to the wiring harness under the hood is another common issue.

  • Failed Relay: Think of relays like big fuses. They work on a similar principle, and there are quite a few of them on your car. The most important one in this instance is the main relay, which operates the car’s computer and fuel pump. If the main relay fails, none of your electronics will operate.

  • Bad Alternator: If your alternator fails during vehicle operation, the vehicle will begin pulling power from the battery. Because the alternator is no longer recharging the battery, it will eventually run down. The initial symptoms mimic a bad battery, but without replacing the alternator, you won’t be going far.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect the entire starting system and determine the source and cause of the problem. Considerable diagnostic time may be required to pinpoint the exact cause of the electrical problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the vehicle, including testing the inoperable electronic components. It may be necessary for the mechanic to conduct voltage testing on multiple components, as well as testing both the battery and alternator. The mechanic will need to narrow down the range of possible problems, and then advise you on the next step in the repair process.

How important is this service?

Really, the importance of this service depends on the electrical components that aren’t working. If you have a widespread component outage, having a professional assess and diagnose the problem is critical. If the problem is only with a single component that’s only necessary for entertainment, it might not be that critical.

However, it is still important to have all electrical problems professionally diagnosed and resolved. This is particularly true if the problem is widespread. One of our mechanics can inspect, troubleshoot and diagnose your electrical problems and have you back up and running.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,458)

Rating Summary
2,279
87
19
12
61
2,279
87
19
12
61

Keith

18 years of experience
374 reviews
Keith
18 years of experience
Audi Q5 V6-3.2L - Oil Change - Davenport, Florida
he did a good job

Damian

11 years of experience
465 reviews
Damian
11 years of experience
Audi A6 Quattro V6-3.2L - Oil Change - Silver Spring, Maryland
Experience was great and educational.

Alonzo

27 years of experience
41 reviews
Alonzo
27 years of experience
Audi A6 Quattro V6-3.0L Turbo - Car is overheating - Oak Park, Illinois
Alonzo great. YourMechanic customer service not so great: 20 min on hold, then hung up on me.

Tung

16 years of experience
310 reviews
Tung
16 years of experience
Audi Q5 L4-2.0L Turbo - CarGurus Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Marietta, Georgia
Extremely knowledgeable and professional.

Excellent Rating

(2,458)

Rating Summary
2,279
87
19
12
61
2,279
87
19
12
61
Number of Audi services completed
27038+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0750 OBD-II Trouble Code: Shift Solenoid 'A' Malfunction
P0750 code definition P0750 indicates a malfunction for a transmission shift solenoid. This code may be seen with other shift solenoid or...
P0612 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Injector Control Module Relay Control
P0612 code means there is an issue with the fuel injector control module often due too a bad fuel injection relay/fuse or poor electrical connection.
B1928 OBD-II Trouble Code: Air Bag Safing Sensor Output Circuit Failure
B1928 means there is an electrical short in the air bag safing sensor, likely due to a defective electrical component or sensor.

My steering wheel is shaking

Just because the wheel has weights attached to it doesn't mean it is balanced correctly. My guess is that the wheels/tires are out of balance. However, the problem could also be worn steering/suspension parts or tires (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/brakes-steering-and-suspension-inspection). A bent rim...

Rattle under car or around engine? Drives fine just a rattle when I apply gas or go over bumps

Hi there. A rattling sound can be caused by simple problems like a loose bracket or a larger issue including a fan blade that is warped, internal engine components like valve lifters not receiving enough oil and drive belt pulley's...

Hi. I drive a 2006 Volvo S40. While driving, it began flashing a series of warning messages. First, it said "Brakes failing-pull over safely" then it started saying "Air bag Failing" and then "Power steering failing." It kept flashing these messages one after the other. I pulled over and turned the car off and on, and it began to do the same thing. I left the car off for a few minutes, and then it returned to normal and wasn't flashing any more warnings. This is the first time this has ever happened. I have been experiencing a different electrical issue aside from that recently. My driver power window and lock has been working on and off, but I have attributed that to a possible short wire. Any advice here? kinda scared to drive my car

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com