Acura RDX Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(238)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(238)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Acura RDX Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $372 with $232 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2010 Acura RDXL4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$619.96Shop/Dealer Price$742.50 - $1095.95
2012 Acura RDXL4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$654.75Shop/Dealer Price$775.16 - $1127.01
2014 Acura RDXV6-3.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$1256.29Shop/Dealer Price$1537.12 - $2372.28
2011 Acura RDXL4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$654.75Shop/Dealer Price$775.21 - $1127.10
2007 Acura RDXL4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$645.67Shop/Dealer Price$770.28 - $1128.39
2016 Acura RDXV6-3.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$1256.29Shop/Dealer Price$1537.36 - $2372.71
2007 Acura RDXL4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$616.47Shop/Dealer Price$737.37 - $1092.69
2017 Acura RDXV6-3.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$856.91Shop/Dealer Price$1036.50 - $1571.08
Show example Acura RDX Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Acura mechanics

Real customer reviews from Acura owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(238)

Rating Summary
229
5
2
1
1
229
5
2
1
1

Rigoberto

12 years of experience
739 reviews
Rigoberto
12 years of experience
Acura RDX L4-2.3L Turbo - Car Battery Replacement - Chicago, Illinois
Did a great job

Andrew

12 years of experience
962 reviews
Andrew
12 years of experience
Acura RDX V6-3.5L - Oil Change - Olathe, Kansas
Andrew performed the repairs/maintenance quickly and efficiently. He let us know he was running a little late, and then got right to work after he arrived. We will use this very convenient service again!

Tagharchi

24 years of experience
81 reviews
Tagharchi
24 years of experience
Acura RDX L4-2.3L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Carlsbad, California
Kevin arrived on time and conducted thorough inspection. He met expectations, yet I think summary of results seemed to me a little vague.

Chris

19 years of experience
600 reviews
Chris
19 years of experience
Acura RDX L4-2.3L Turbo - Camshaft Position Sensor - Houston, Texas
Called to let me know he had an earlier spot open and offered this to me, I was glad to accept - ended up being super convenient! He fixed the problem and offered insights into other things I was planning to fix next. My car has been driving well, so far so good! Thank you, I appreciate the time you took to get the job done. Would love to keep in contact for future car fixes as needed.

Excellent Rating

(238)

Rating Summary
229
5
2
1
1
229
5
2
1
1
Number of Acura RDX services completed
2618+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Acura MECHANICS
1000+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P2219 OBD-II Trouble Code: NOx Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2
P2219 code means there is an abnormal reading within the NOx sensor circuit voltage often due too faulty fuel usage or defective sensors.
P0058 OBD-II trouble code: HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0058 P0058 trouble code definition The definition of the trouble code P0058 is heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit high voltage bank 2 sensor 2. What the P0058 code means When this code is stored in the powertrain control module...
How to Detail Your Car with a Clay Bar
Clay bar detailing gives your car exterior a smooth and shiny surface. Clean and prepare the car body before you use a clay bar on your car exterior.

I am having a problem with degraded acceleration/mileage.

I would recommend checking/testing the O2 sensor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/oxygen-sensor-replacement) and the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/mass-airflow-sensor-replacement). When either of these two sensors are not working properly, as you may know, they will send inaccurate signals to the ECM which will...

Check engine, battery, and oil light comes on and car stops.

It sounds like you are having an intermittent charging system failure. I would recommend having the output of the alternator tested with a digital multimeter. You will want the alternators output to be around 14 volts or maybe just a...

my 2006 ford fusion has check charging system light on and temperature is up as well. What is it?

On your car, a single belt drives the water pump, power steering pump and alternator. The belt has probably come loose and or has come off completely. Of course, don't drive the car because if there is no functioning water...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com