Volvo 960 Battery will not hold a charge Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(19)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(19)

Battery will not hold a charge Inspection Service

How much does a Battery will not hold a charge Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Volvo 960 Battery will not hold a charge Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1995 Volvo 960L6-2.9LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1996 Volvo 960L6-2.9LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1997 Volvo 960L6-2.9LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1992 Volvo 960L6-2.9LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1994 Volvo 960L6-2.9LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1993 Volvo 960L6-2.9LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example Volvo 960 Battery will not hold a charge Inspection prices

Your car has a battery for a very good reason – it provides the initial power needed to crank the engine and get the car running. After that, the alternator takes over, providing the power for your accessories, as well as recharging the battery. If your battery has died and then recharged, and you’ve found that it will not hold a charge (the battery is fine for a little while, but then the charge dissipates), there’s a problem somewhere in your system that must be diagnosed and repaired.

How this system works:

In a normal system, it works like this: Your battery supplies power to the starter and the main relay. The main relay powers the fuel pump and computer. The battery also supplies the initial electric spark to the spark plugs. Once the engine is cranked, the alternator begins turning, which generates the electricity necessary to recharge the battery and to power the engine and other components.

The alternator should always provide enough electricity to recharge the battery and power your other components. If it does not, then the electricity needed comes from the battery and because it’s not being recharged, it will eventually die. Of course, automotive batteries have a limited lifespan – they should be checked regularly after they’re about three years of age (although it’s wise to have them checked at least twice a year no matter how new they might be).

If your battery won’t hold a charge, it means there are problems within the system that are either preventing the battery from being recharged, or draining the battery when the engine is off.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Bad Cell: Batteries will eventually die no matter what. They will develop a bad cell that prevents them from holding a charge and will need to be replaced. This is part of normal vehicle maintenance. Have your battery tested every Spring and Fall to ensure that you’re able to avoid being stranded by a failed battery. Batteries most commonly “die” during hot and cold weather.

  • Low Water: Some batteries have fill holes that allow you to maintain them, although most modern batteries are maintenance free and don’t allow you to add water. If you have a maintainable battery, topping off the water level may solve the problem.

  • Bad Alternator: If the alternator is not charging the battery while the engine operates, the battery will not hold a charge. This is most noticeable if you jump the battery and the engine runs for a while, only to eventually die. It is also observable by watching your headlights – while the engine is running, check the lights. If they start bright but slowly fade, chances are good that the problem is the alternator, not the battery.

  • Corroded Battery Cables: Battery cables and terminals can suffer from corrosion. As it builds up, this corrosion prevents solid contact, and can limit the charge being supplied to the battery from the alternator. Regular maintenance of your battery can prevent this.

  • Loose Alternator Belt: If the alternator belt is loose (old and stretched), it will not operate the alternator properly, which means that the charge the alternator produces may not be enough to recharge the battery.

  • Parasitic Drain: It might be that your battery and alternator are just fine, but there’s something else draining the charge. This could be something as simple as leaving the lights on, or having an accessory plugged in to an “always on” power outlet, or it could be a stuck relay or something else that’s pulling power from the battery when the engine isn’t running.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your office, home or other location to inspect the battery, the alternator and other components of the charging system. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will test your battery, alternator and starter. The mechanic will also check for parasitic drain and other problems that might make your battery not hold a charge. It may be necessary to replace your battery in order to diagnose other system-wide problems (if the battery has developed a bad cell).

How important is this service?

If your battery won’t hold a charge, it’s not safe to drive your car. Even if your alternator is working fine, turning the car off for something as simple as stopping at the gas station will mean that the engine won’t crank and you’ll need to jump it off. One of our top-rated mechanics can diagnose the problem and get you back up and running.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Volvo mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volvo owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(19)

Rating Summary
19
0
0
0
0
19
0
0
0
0

H

26 years of experience
828 reviews
H
26 years of experience
Volvo 960 L6-2.9L - Radiator Flush - Saratoga, California
Probably the most helpful mechanic in the bay area

Simon

27 years of experience
309 reviews
Simon
27 years of experience
Volvo 960 L6-2.9L - Brake Rotor/Disc Replacement (Rear) - Upper Marlboro, Maryland
The only one I want working on my car.

Richard

21 years of experience
461 reviews
Richard
21 years of experience
Volvo 960 L6-2.9L - Car is not starting - Jonesboro, Georgia
Richard was very professional and knowledgeable. Willing to recommend him to anyone!!!!

Gregory

15 years of experience
21 reviews
Gregory
15 years of experience
Volvo 960 L6-2.9L - Intake Manifold Gaskets - Vallejo, California
Did job in my driveway I woke up and car was fixed!

Excellent Rating

(19)

Rating Summary
19
0
0
0
0
19
0
0
0
0
Number of Volvo 960 services completed
209+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volvo MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Can Cracked Hoses Be Repaired or Do They Need to Be Replaced?
Most Most hoses are made of rubber. Some hoses are reinforced, but rubber remains the primary construction material. Rubber offers the right mix of capabilities – it can easily expand and contract with temperature fluctuations, it’s relatively light, and it’s...
B1939 OBD-II Trouble Code: Air Bag Passenger Pressure Switch Circuit Short to Ground
B1939 means there is an issue with the air bag pressure switch on the passenger side, likely due to a malfunction in the switch or module.
P0387 OBD-II Trouble Code: Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
Trouble code P0387 means the PCM has detected a signal from crankshaft position sensor B that is outside the normal variation set by the manufacturer.

Possible to drive without front differential?

If the vehicle has manually selectable 4WD, then you can get away with this, but it's obviously not ideal. If the vehicle is not selectable and is instead a full time AWD (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-all-wheel-drive-works), then you cannot do this, as the...

Squealing and clicking noise from back part of the car but only when moving forward

Hello, thank you for writing in. The first step is to definitively determine if the noise happens when the vehicle is moving (and it is brake or wheel related), or if the noise happens constantly when the vehicle is running....

Car has loss of power when accelerating.

Loss of power on acceleration can be due to plugged fuel injectors, faulty oxygen sensors, fuel pump and/or filter, vacuum leaks including that caused by a faulty EGR system, ignition system malfunctions, bad valve timing if the timing belt or...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com