Suzuki Sidekick Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(6)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(6)

Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement Service

How much does a Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Suzuki Sidekick Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement is $205 with $23 for parts and $182 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1992 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1661.86Shop/Dealer Price$1820.73 - $2238.21
1993 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1596.09Shop/Dealer Price$1742.06 - $2149.87
1998 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1748.07Shop/Dealer Price$1928.76 - $2439.88
1990 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1596.09Shop/Dealer Price$1742.24 - $2150.18
1997 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1748.07Shop/Dealer Price$1939.65 - $2458.95
1996 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1748.07Shop/Dealer Price$1929.79 - $2441.69
1997 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.8LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$235.65Shop/Dealer Price$249.55 - $285.77
1995 Suzuki SidekickL4-1.6LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1610.69Shop/Dealer Price$1757.02 - $2165.10
Show example Suzuki Sidekick Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement prices

What is the Front Crankshaft Seal all about?

A number of mechanisms must work together to make your vehicle move forward. One of the most important is the crankshaft, which converts rotary into linear motion; i.e., it transforms the force created by the engine's pistons moving up and down into a force that moves in a circular motion that causes a car’s wheel to turn. Enclosed in what’s called a crankcase—the largest cavity in the engine block, just below the cylinders—the crankshaft must be completely lubricated, essentially submerged in oil, to spin nearly friction-free and do its job properly.

Consequently, there are seals located at either end of the crankshaft that allow it to spin freely and keep engine oil from escaping the engine block, as well as prevent contaminants and other debris from entering and causing damage to the mechanism. Since there are two ends of the crankshaft, there are two types of seals: the front crankshaft seal and the rear crankshaft seal, also known as the front main and rear main seals.

Keep in mind:

  • Loss of oil will eventually cause serious internal engine damage.
  • Inspect the sealing surface of the crankshaft or the crankshaft pulley (depending on the engine design) for damage when replacing the crankshaft seal.
  • Oil degrades rubber components.

How it's done:

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands
  • The crankshaft damper and timing belt is removed
  • The crankshaft seal is removed and a new one installed
  • The timing belt and cover along with crankshaft damper is reinstalled
  • The engine accessory belts are installed and the vehicle is lowered off of the jack stands

Our recommendation:

One of the most important parts of your car, crankshaft seals are typically made from a durable material, such as a synthetic rubber or silicone, designed to handle the extreme pressure and temperatures as well as the caustic chemicals in your engine oil. Because they are exposed to such abuse, main seals are subject to a lot of wear and tear. And whether you are talking a front or rear main seal, replacement is the only cure when one malfunctions.

The good news is that the seals are relatively inexpensive components. The bad news is that neither is easy to replace.

Front seal: The front seal is located behind the main pulley that drives all the belts, which is, of course, always spinning. The main pulley throws any leaking oil out in a big circle. It can get thrown up on the alternator, steering pump, belts, in short anything attached to the front of the engine and cause a real mess and eventually some serious damage. Consequently, it has to be removed along with many of the components attached to the front of the block to replace the front main seal.

Rear seal: The rear crankshaft seal is placed along with the transmission; therefore, the process of replacing it requires the removal of transmission, as well as the clutch and flywheel assembly. This is a very involved job.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Front Crankshaft Seal?

  • Oil leaking from the front crank pulley.
  • Oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch housing, where the block and transmission meet.
  • Clutch slip caused by oil spraying on the clutch.

How important is this service?

Letting either crankshaft seal continue to leak can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides the maladies caused by driving around with little to no oil flowing in the engine, the faulty seal will be spread oil through the engine bay and undercarriage of your car as you drive, a mess that is difficult to clean up and can be a fire hazard. Replacing is better addressed sooner than later.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Suzuki mechanics

Real customer reviews from Suzuki owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(6)

Rating Summary
6
0
0
0
0
6
0
0
0
0

Robert

21 years of experience
1307 reviews
Robert
21 years of experience
Suzuki Sidekick L4-1.8L - Parking / Emergency Brake does not work Inspection - Denver, Colorado
did a great job would like to use again for the recommendations thanks robert

Victor

36 years of experience
230 reviews
Victor
36 years of experience
Suzuki Sidekick L4-1.8L - Door does not lock or open - Los Lunas, New Mexico
I would gladly give your company 20 stars for the excellent service that I received from Victor. Is courtesy prompt is professionalism and expertise exceeded my expectations.As a widow and t senior citizen, I was greatly reassured by his calm demeanor and his kindness and desire to make sure that my car was safe for myself and all other citizens driving on the road with me.I would definitely recommend him to anyone who wishes to have a courteous professional and proficient mechanic to evaluate their car and fix whatever could be fixed.

Ramiro

22 years of experience
103 reviews
Ramiro
22 years of experience
Suzuki Sidekick L4-1.6L - Electric Problems - Seattle, Washington
Ramiro is very thorough and went through all the systems to make sure that he came up with the best solution. He then explained all of the solutions to me in detail in a way that I could understand.

Russell

25 years of experience
356 reviews
Russell
25 years of experience
Suzuki Sidekick L4-1.6L - Valve Cover Gasket - Portland, Oregon
He showed up early and got the job done before I had to leave for another appointment. Will use again.

Excellent Rating

(6)

Rating Summary
6
0
0
0
0
6
0
0
0
0
Number of Suzuki Sidekick services completed
66+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Suzuki MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Do You Really Need Premium Gas?
You’re You’re given the choice every time you pull up to the fuel pumps - regular or premium gas (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/regular-gas-versus-premium-gas-what-s-the-difference-and-should-i-care). You’ve heard all the hype about premium fuel and the benefits it provides: Better fuel efficiency Corrosion prevention Engine knock...
P2198 OBD-II Trouble Code: O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1
P2198 P2198 code definition O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1 What the P2198 code means This trouble code indicates that the upstream oxygen sensor on the second bank of the exhaust is sending a reference voltage to...
5 Essential Things to Know About Car Insurance
Whether Whether you have a brand new beauty or an older beast, you have to have car insurance if you plan to drive on the road. Before you run out and choose the cheapest option around, there are a few...

My car has a problem with wheel vibration (while braking)

It does sound like your rotors are warped. The rotors would have to be measured to determine if they can be resurfaced, or if the rotors need to be replaced (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/brake-rotor-disc-replacement). You don't need to upgrade to aftermarket slotted and...

Rattle sound coming from the front suspension over bumps?

Hi Cory. I watched the video, but it was very difficult to pinpoint a unique rattling sound that wouldn't possibly be caused by driving on the gravel. In some cases when you drive on rough roads, a rattling sound will...

Jerking reaction

Hi There, This may be a result of low transmission fluid (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/transmission-fluid-service) or potentially a faulty transmission control module. A faulty transmission control module may cause a delay in acceleration or erratic shifting of gears. The transmission control module has...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com