Plymouth Laser Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(167)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(167)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Plymouth Laser Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $315 with $133 for parts and $182 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1993 Plymouth LaserL4-1.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$653.34Shop/Dealer Price$770.98 - $1113.37
1993 Plymouth LaserL4-1.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$619.10Shop/Dealer Price$690.68 - $895.52
1994 Plymouth LaserL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$724.30Shop/Dealer Price$832.63 - $1148.85
1993 Plymouth LaserL4-1.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$515.25Shop/Dealer Price$599.03 - $844.93
1990 Plymouth LaserL4-1.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$641.63Shop/Dealer Price$758.92 - $1101.05
1990 Plymouth LaserL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$778.10Shop/Dealer Price$889.82 - $1214.21
1994 Plymouth LaserL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$773.14Shop/Dealer Price$893.71 - $1246.58
1992 Plymouth LaserL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$665.18Shop/Dealer Price$748.33 - $987.78
Show example Plymouth Laser Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Plymouth mechanics

Real customer reviews from Plymouth owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(167)

Rating Summary
154
5
1
1
6
154
5
1
1
6

Vladimir

11 years of experience
214 reviews
Vladimir
11 years of experience
Plymouth Neon L4-2.0L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Right) - Sacramento, California
Great guy, easy to talk to and went above and beyond what he had to do. Would recommend definitely.

David

17 years of experience
639 reviews
David
17 years of experience
Plymouth Neon L4-2.0L - Brake System Flush - Sacramento, California
Excellent worker and person

Rick

22 years of experience
44 reviews
Rick
22 years of experience
Plymouth Voyager L4-2.4L - Brake System Flush - Turlock, California
Mom said he was courteous and worked hard and got the work done.

David

26 years of experience
180 reviews
David
26 years of experience
Plymouth Prowler V6-3.5L - Car is not starting - Summerfield, Florida
The man knows his way around cars, I would hire him again anytime.

Excellent Rating

(167)

Rating Summary
154
5
1
1
6
154
5
1
1
6
Number of Plymouth services completed
1837+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Plymouth MECHANICS
100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Get Sap Off a Car
Tree sap on your car can be hard to remove. Hand wash your car, then try car tree sap remover or rubbing alcohol to get tree sap off your paint.
How to Replace a Lost or Stolen Car Title in Montana
After After working so hard to pay for your vehicle, your car title is that piece of paper that proves you are the registered owner. What this title gives you is the ability to sell your car should you decide...
5 Essential Things to Know About Storing Your Car
Even Even if your car will be sitting for a period of only a few weeks, it’s important that you take steps to store it properly or you will risk having mechanical problems crop up from disuse – some of...

Getting error codes P0340 and P0011

These codes both indicate a problem with the cam sensor for bank 1, or A, on the passenger's side of the engine. Whether the sensor has failed and no other problems exist would need to be verified. I would recommend...

car wont shift out of first gear.

Hello, the concern you have I strongly advise not to drive. The issue needs to be addressed, the vehicle will become inoperable. The automatic transmission has 3 systems; electronic, hydraulic, and mechanical. What describe could be an internal mechanical...

02 Mitsubishi Lancer, no signal to injectors from ecm. Will the crank or cam sensor cause this? How do I check if it that or ecm?

You're right in that the crank sensor (CKP) is the primary trigger for the injection pulse. But the only way to reliably check the CKP output is with a scope. If you don't have a scope, all you can check...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com