Mitsubishi Van Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(7)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(7)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mitsubishi Van Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $533 with $323 for parts and $210 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$1018.46Shop/Dealer Price$1188.72 - $1680.04
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$996.84Shop/Dealer Price$1162.85 - $1651.00
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$953.04Shop/Dealer Price$1118.56 - $1606.33
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$953.04Shop/Dealer Price$1118.55 - $1606.33
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$996.84Shop/Dealer Price$1166.45 - $1657.29
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$996.84Shop/Dealer Price$1163.25 - $1651.69
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$996.84Shop/Dealer Price$1162.95 - $1651.17
1990 Mitsubishi VanL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$996.84Shop/Dealer Price$1162.91 - $1651.10
Show example Mitsubishi Van Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mitsubishi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mitsubishi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(7)

Rating Summary
6
1
0
0
0
6
1
0
0
0

Derrick

12 years of experience
184 reviews
Derrick
12 years of experience
Mitsubishi Van L4-2.4L - Adjust Ignition Timing - Emeryville, California
What a cool service! Derrick kept in touch as he was on his way, was friendly and informative, and fixed the timing problem on my old, unusual car. The fee was reasonable, especially considering the mechanics come to your house.

Junard

12 years of experience
161 reviews
Junard
12 years of experience
Mitsubishi Galant L4-2.4L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left) - Upper Darby, Pennsylvania
This was my first time using this service and of course I was skeptical since I've never heard of this company or mechanics who make house calls before but the price was so good compared to the auto service companies in the area I had to give it a shot. Junard was on time for our scheduled appointment, about 10 minutes early actually which was great since I had somewhere to be as soon as he was finished. He explained everything that needed to be done and how he was going to do it step by step. He had me test drive the car once he was finished to make sure the job was done right. He was very professional, knowledgeable, efficient, and courteous. He told me about other issues with my car without me asking and gave me advice but didn't pressure me to fix anything other than what I originally requested like the usual mechanic at an auto body shop will do. He just sent me a quote so I know what to expect cost wise if I wanted to get it fixed in the future. Junard exceeded my expectations of this service and I will definitely use him again in the future and I 100% recommend him to anyone!

Richard

22 years of experience
461 reviews
Richard
22 years of experience
Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.0L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Right) - Atlanta, Georgia
Richard did excellent job replacing my lower control arm and replacing my value casket replacement. He found problem with one of my tires and appreciate letting me know of this issue. I will have tire checked.

Stephen

26 years of experience
48 reviews
Stephen
26 years of experience
Mitsubishi Eclipse V6-3.0L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Right) - Charleston, South Carolina
Mechanic arrived on time. Very knowledgeable. He did a great work in a short time. I have booked him for another service and i would recommend him to anyone.

Excellent Rating

(7)

Rating Summary
6
1
0
0
0
6
1
0
0
0
Number of Mitsubishi Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
77+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mitsubishi MECHANICS
800+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Transfer a Car Title in North Carolina
In In the state of North Carolina, vehicle ownership is shown by the name on the car’s title. When ownership changes, the title needs to be transferred from the previous owner to the new owner. This happens when a vehicle...
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Engine Mount
Common signs include impact noises, excessive vibrations, and engine movement.
How to Replace a Windshield Wiper Blade
Car windshield wiper blades need to be replaced if you see streaks or hear scraping. Keep wiper blades in good condition to maintain good visibility.

Flashing green light next to "D" and check engine light on.

For this particular issue, I would start by checking the continuity of the cruise control switch (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/cruise-control-switch-replacement) buttons. You will need to check these with a volt meter to determine if they are getting power. If you need assistance with...

My EPC and battery light is on in my 2012 Volkswagen Jetta and it will not start.

Hello. This can be caused by a number of reasons. The EPC light will come on when the computer detects a problem within the power train system. This can be as easy as a bad sensor or a more complicated...

2006 Solara, 3.3 Engine with 218k miles. It is hestiating at take off only, RPM's jump then come back to normal. catalytic or TBA

The catalytic converter has nothing to do with the symptom you are describing and, in any event, is easy to rule in or out as a "cause" of any malfunction. You simply measure exhaust back pressure with a gauge, compare...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com