Mitsubishi Raider Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(15)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(15)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mitsubishi Raider Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2008 Mitsubishi RaiderV6-3.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
2007 Mitsubishi RaiderV8-4.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2006 Mitsubishi RaiderV6-3.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2009 Mitsubishi RaiderV6-3.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.39 - $119.68
2006 Mitsubishi RaiderV8-4.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.42 - $119.75
2007 Mitsubishi RaiderV6-3.7LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
Show example Mitsubishi Raider Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mitsubishi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mitsubishi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(15)

Rating Summary
15
0
0
0
0
15
0
0
0
0

Emanuel

18 years of experience
81 reviews
Emanuel
18 years of experience
Mitsubishi Raider V6-3.7L - Oil Change - Sugar Land, Texas

Augustine

12 years of experience
129 reviews
Augustine
12 years of experience
Mitsubishi Raider V6-3.7L - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Albuquerque, New Mexico
Very knowledgeable and explained in layman's terms what he was doing for the repairs.

Patrick

33 years of experience
1449 reviews
Patrick
33 years of experience
Mitsubishi Raider V6-3.7L - Engine is misfiring Inspection - Austin, Texas
Patrick is reliable and very knowledgeable. I would always recommend Patrick to anyone considering work on their car

Ned

24 years of experience
52 reviews
Ned
24 years of experience
Mitsubishi Raider V6-3.7L - Oil Change - Phoenix, Arizona
Thanks Ned D for coming on Sunday to take care of my truck! Great job, and Professionalism. I will recommend Your Mechanic to all my friends.

Excellent Rating

(15)

Rating Summary
15
0
0
0
0
15
0
0
0
0
Number of Mitsubishi Raider services completed
165+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mitsubishi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Buy a Good Quality Dog Crate for Road Trips
Heading Heading out in the car for a road trip is an exciting and fun event, but if you’re taking your dog along with you, then a good quality dog crate is in order. A dog crate ensures that your...
P2183 OBD-II Trouble Code: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance
What What the P2183 code means? P2183 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module (ECM) detecting the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) #2 is out of range and performance does not correlate with ECT sensor #1. What...
How to Choose and Install Specialty Car Seats
While custom cars commonly see aftermarket (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/all-about-aftermarket-parts) additions for performance and overall appearance, only a handful of applications call for the addition of aftermarket seats. In some cases, the seats (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-clean-leather-seats) are replaced with something more comfortable. This is seen...

I been having problems with my car, a couple of days ago its would not start.... The dipstick was creamy, I checked my coils, 2004 Nissan Altima

Hello - to be sure, a leaking valve cover gasket (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-valve-cover-gasket) that is allowing oil to leak onto the plugs, plug boots or coils, will cause misfire issues, and uncertain engine starting performance. I recommend a car is not starting...

Engine and trans replace labor hours 2010 Ford Transit Connect 2.0

Hello - unfortunately this is not a service YourMechanic offers at this time. Thanks for thinking of us though!

So I am trying to change my spark plugs in my 2012 Volkswagen CC. But autozone gave me the wrong size. Unknowingly I put them down

You need to check to see if you are using the correct socket for the spark plug since some use a 9/16 socket instead of the 5/8 socket so you can get out the plugs. If you still cannot get...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com