Mitsubishi Endeavor Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(151)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(151)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mitsubishi Endeavor Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2006 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2008 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2007 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2010 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2011 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2005 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2004 Mitsubishi EndeavorV6-3.8LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
Show example Mitsubishi Endeavor Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mitsubishi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mitsubishi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(151)

Rating Summary
143
3
3
1
1
143
3
3
1
1

Jeremy

20 years of experience
603 reviews
Jeremy
20 years of experience
Mitsubishi Endeavor V6-3.8L - Brake Pads Replacement (Front, Rear) - Boynton Beach, Florida
Just does great work very knowledgeable

Jeffrey

27 years of experience
870 reviews
Jeffrey
27 years of experience
Mitsubishi Endeavor V6-3.8L - Car is not starting - Charlotte, North Carolina
Jeffreys is frendly and professional

Al

22 years of experience
26 reviews
Al
22 years of experience
Mitsubishi Endeavor V6-3.8L - Car is not starting - Atlanta, Georgia
Mr. Williams was on time for my appointment. He diagnosed the problem and explained everything to me in detail. Great customer service!!

Will

12 years of experience
49 reviews
Will
12 years of experience
Mitsubishi Endeavor V6-3.8L - Alternator - Scottsdale, Arizona
Very Knowledgeable mechanic and He explained to me about the problem on my car 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor .. I had him to put alternator. I will recommend him to any friend that need a car repair.. Elvira

Excellent Rating

(151)

Rating Summary
143
3
3
1
1
143
3
3
1
1
Number of Mitsubishi Endeavor services completed
1661+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mitsubishi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Register a Car in North Carolina
The The landscape and atmosphere of North Carolina is what has made it one of the most popular states in the country. If you are in the process of moving to this great state, then be sure to take your...
P2192 OBD-II Trouble Code: System Too Rich at Higher Load Bank 1
P2192 P2192 code definition System Too Rich at Higher Load Bank 1 What the P2192 code means This code indicates there is a rich condition in the exhaust under high load conditions. High load conditions exist when a vehicle is...
How to Replace a Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal
A transfer case output shaft moves torque from the powertrain to the rear wheels of a 4WD, using the transfer case output shaft seal to stay in place.

hot air blows out driver side vents but only cold air out passenger side vents?

Hello, thanks for writing in about your Toyota 4Runner. Your A/C has separate temperature control actuators on the A/C evaporator case and the passenger side one may be stuck in cold position. Replace the actuator and it should fix the...

Dash lights are out on my Ford Ranger.

Check the ground wiring under the dashboard to see if it is loose. A loose or broken wire will cause electrical issues with the dash lights and cigarette lighter to not work. If you need further assistance with your electrical...

Failed emissions test, (OBDII), trouble code P0460: fuel level sensor circuit, the fuel gauge & warning light are accurate,? 2001 Ford Ranger

Hello - the P0460 (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0460-obd-ii-trouble-code-p0460-fuel-level-sensor-circuit-malfunction-by-conor-fynes) code is not a failure of the fuel gauge, but rather a discrepancy between how much fuel the Powertrain Control Module thinks is in the tank, and the fuel gauge reading. This problem occurs most...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com