Mercedes-Benz A35 AMG Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(5,730)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(5,730)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz A35 AMG Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2021 Mercedes-Benz A35 AMGL4-2.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2020 Mercedes-Benz A35 AMGL4-2.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2022 Mercedes-Benz A35 AMGL4-2.0L TurboService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example Mercedes-Benz A35 AMG Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(5,730)

Rating Summary
5,332
192
54
29
123
5,332
192
54
29
123

Jerome

34 years of experience
206 reviews
Jerome
34 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz C300 V6-3.0L - Grinding noise when braking - Gaithersburg, Maryland
I was skeptical when I first booked the appt for my brakes but that changed! Jerome was on time, answered all of my questions and did a great job replacing my brakes! His report on my card matched what a dealership recently told me and the cost was exactly what was quoted. I will definitely use this service again and I will book Jerome!!!!

Miguel

21 years of experience
251 reviews
Miguel
21 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz CLK320 V6-3.2L - Grinding noise when braking Inspection - Fort Lee, New Jersey
Miguel gave me an assessment on a used car I recently bought. He was very thorough, honest about the vehicle's condition and suggested recommendations about the issue w/ my car's brakes. A++!

Damian

11 years of experience
465 reviews
Damian
11 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz C250 L4-1.8L Turbo - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Bowie, Maryland
Great guy! Did his job well!

Caster

28 years of experience
176 reviews
Caster
28 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz E500 V8-5.0L - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - San Rafael, California
Caster was awesome! He did a pre-purchase inspection on my new Mercedes-Benz and I've been really impressed with my car!

Excellent Rating

(5,730)

Rating Summary
5,332
192
54
29
123
5,332
192
54
29
123
Number of Mercedes-Benz services completed
63030+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercedes-Benz MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 BMW 335d
Of Of all of the BMW 3-Series models available in this model year, the 2012 BMW 335d is one of the most powerful and subtlest on the road. This 4-dour sedan may look mild-mannered enough, but under the hood it’s...
How to Buy a Good Quality Fuel Injector
Getting Getting fuel directly to an engine is accomplished through an electronic fuel injector; with each cylinder getting its own dose of fuel which is much more efficient than the ways carburetors would send fuel directly to the engine in...
P2253 OBD-II Trouble Code: O2 (Oxygen) Sensor Negative Current Control Circuit High Bank1 Sensor 1
P2253 P2253 code definition O2 (Oxygen) Sensor Negative Current Control Circuit High Bank1 Sensor 1 What the P2253 code means P2253 is a generic OBD2 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-the-on-board-diagnostics-obd-system) indicating a fault with the bank 1 sensor 1 O2...

Car only drives about 15 miles before engine quits

Hello there, thank you for asking about your 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air. Older, carbureted vehicles are not my area of expertise. However, if you got the vehicle to run by spraying carburetor cleaner into the carburetor, I can tell you...

When slowing down and then accelerating transmission is jerky and makes a clunking noise.

It is possible that you could have faulty U-joints or a bad transmission mount causing this issue. I would recommend having your vehicle inspected by a qualified professional to determine if either one of these parts are faulty. Consider YourMechanic...

i bought a used grade a motor and was wondeing if i needed to replace the gaskets on it. 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse

I would recommend looking for any seals or gaskets that may be leaking before installation of the used motor since it would be easier to change the parts with engine out. If no leak is detected then they do not...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com