Mazda 6 Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(3)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(3)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda 6 Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $221 with $53 for parts and $168 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2006 Mazda 6L4-2.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$441.74Shop/Dealer Price$510.00 - $705.04
2003 Mazda 6L4-2.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$442.56Shop/Dealer Price$473.47 - $556.72
2005 Mazda 6L4-2.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$649.74Shop/Dealer Price$732.50 - $971.18
2008 Mazda 6V6-3.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$430.93Shop/Dealer Price$497.09 - $690.57
2016 Mazda 6L4-2.5LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$722.23Shop/Dealer Price$853.03 - $1234.21
2006 Mazda 6L4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$481.72Shop/Dealer Price$522.80 - $635.70
2006 Mazda 6L4-2.3L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$379.52Shop/Dealer Price$419.01 - $530.71
2007 Mazda 6L4-2.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$379.52Shop/Dealer Price$418.98 - $530.67
Show example Mazda 6 Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mazda mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mazda owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(3)

Rating Summary
3
0
0
0
0
3
0
0
0
0

Andrian

30 years of experience
184 reviews
Andrian
30 years of experience
6 2015 - Control Arm Assembly - Hollywood, FL
Awesome mechanic, highly recommend.

Mike

25 years of experience
79 reviews
Mike
25 years of experience
6 2010 - Valve Cover Gasket - Lincoln Park, MI
Excellent experience. I completely trust Mike with my vehicle repairs.

Mike

25 years of experience
79 reviews
Mike
25 years of experience
6 2010 - Turn Signal Bulb - Lincoln Park, MI
Excellent experience. I completely trust Mike with my vehicle repairs.

Mike

25 years of experience
79 reviews
Mike
25 years of experience
6 2010 - Oil Change - Lincoln Park, MI
Mike is professional and knowledgeable. I highly recommend his work and expertise. I will not hesitate to book services with him in the future.

Excellent Rating

(3)

Rating Summary
3
0
0
0
0
3
0
0
0
0
Number of Mazda 6 Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
33+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mazda MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Top 10 Ways to Protect Your Car From Sun Damage
We We all know that sun exposure can harm our skin, but did you know the sun’s rays can also damage your car? When you leave your car in the sun for extended periods of time, the temperature inside can...
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Crankcase Vent Filter
Common signs include oil leaks, excessively high idle, and a decrease in engine performance, power, and acceleration.
4 Essential Things to Know About Your Car’s Fuel Gauge
Few Few things are as frustrating and worrisome as running out of gas. Most people will do their best to make sure that they always have some gas in the tank. However, if there is an issue with the fuel...

Tire leak

Hi! The area that a tire can lose air is very limited. The air loss will come from either a damaged rim, leaking valve stems or tire puncture. Most punctures can be repaired but not all. I suggest that a...

Car jerking upon acceleration, sluggish engine

You will need to have the ignition and fuel systems checked. The fuel pump (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/fuel-pump-replacement) and filter (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/fuel-filter-replacement) should be checked for correct pressure and flow due to clogged filter or pump pressure. The ignition should be checked to see...

Exhaust manifold leak

It sounds like what you are describing is an exhaust manifold leak. Your exhaust manifold is bolted to the cylinder head and is sealed with an exhaust manifold gasket that sits in between the manifold and the cylinder head. When...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com