Lincoln Continental Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(75)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(75)

Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection Service

How much does a Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Lincoln Continental Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1968 Lincoln ContinentalV8-7.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
1988 Lincoln ContinentalV6-3.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1961 Lincoln ContinentalV8-7.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1995 Lincoln ContinentalV8-4.6LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
1994 Lincoln ContinentalV6-3.8LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
1987 Lincoln ContinentalV8-5.0LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1977 Lincoln ContinentalV8-7.5LService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
2018 Lincoln ContinentalV6-2.7L TurboService typeBrakes must be pumped to work InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Lincoln Continental Brakes must be pumped to work Inspection prices

When you slow your car or decide to stop, you press the brake pedal. Most of the time, the pedal will be firm and you’ll be able to apply steady pressure until you reach the desired slower speed, or come to a complete stop. However, sometimes the pedal may “go to the floor” and you’ll have to pump it a couple of times to get the firm feel that you’re used to. If your brakes must be pumped to work, there’s a serious issue that needs to be addressed.

How this system works:

Your brakes work on fluid pressure. If the braking system isn’t able to build up the pressure necessary to operate the system, your pedal will feel strange. In some cases, it will be spongy and soft. In others, you’ll have to pump the brakes.

When you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid into the lines, creating pressure. This activates the calipers, which squeeze the rotor on each wheel between the brake pads. Drum brakes work on a similar basis, but fluid pressure causes the actuator to press the shoes out against the sides of the drum to slow down the wheels.

Obviously, if there isn’t enough pressure in the lines, this doesn’t happen. However, if moisture has gotten into the system, the result can be similar. Water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid. When it’s heated at the brakes, it vaporizes, creating air in the lines (and allowing compression – brake fluid cannot be compressed).

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Air in the Lines: The number one most common cause for having to pump your brakes to get them to work is air in the lines. This may be because your brakes were recently serviced but not bled correctly. It requires bleeding each wheel several times, starting with the wheels farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front and driver front). It can take multiple bleeds to remove all the air from the lines, even after a basic service. The fluid will then need to be topped off.

  • Low Brake Fluid: If your brake fluid is low (and it’s not due to brake pad wear), then the system will be unable to create enough pressure for normal operation and you may have to pump the pedal. Generally, low fluid is caused by a leak somewhere in the system, including at the caliper, the brake lines, or even the master cylinder.

  • Failing Master Cylinder: While rare, master cylinder failure does occur. If the master cylinder has begun leaking fluid down the back of the engine, you can expect to experience poor brake operation and reduced safety on the road.

  • Moisture in the Fluid: If your brake fluid has absorbed moisture (which is normal over time and through regularly wear and tear), you’ll notice reduced braking performance, including the possibility that you’ll have to pump the brake pedal in some situations.

  • Damaged or Missing Bleeder Valve: Each wheel should have a brake fluid bleeder valve on the line near the wheel hub. If one of yours has been damaged, it’s possible that you’re leaking fluid and allowing air into the line at the same time.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s brake system. The mechanic will visually inspect the master cylinder, the brake lines, calipers, and the rest of the system in order to determine the underlying cause of the problem. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will need to inspect the entire brake system, which may require the removal of one or more wheels. The mechanic will also need to check for air in the lines, as well as leaks in the lines and at the master cylinder.

How important is this service?

If your brakes have to be pumped to work, your system needs immediate service. This indicates a significant problem, including air in the lines. It reduces your stopping capability on the road, which endangers you, your passengers, as well as others on the road. One of our mechanics can diagnose and repair the problem, ensuring that you’re safe while driving.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Lincoln mechanics

Real customer reviews from Lincoln owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(75)

Rating Summary
69
3
0
0
3
69
3
0
0
3

Patrick

15 years of experience
406 reviews
Patrick
15 years of experience
Lincoln Continental V8-4.6L - Fuel Pump - San Clemente, California
It was a pleasure to meet Patrick and he did a great job. It turned out that the fuel pump was not the problem and it did not need to be replaced. The car still was not working. He guessed the possible issue and made a recommendation. We ordered the part and took a chance. He was correct! Thank you for your help! - John

Ricardo

23 years of experience
199 reviews
Ricardo
23 years of experience
Lincoln Continental V8-4.6L - Tie Rod End Replacement (Front Right Outer) - Miami, Florida
Good

Patrick

15 years of experience
406 reviews
Patrick
15 years of experience
Lincoln Continental V8-4.6L - Starter - Richmond, Virginia
Islam was very polite and courteous. Islam was very professional and knowledgeable and he was very good at giving professional advice in reference to other maintenance needs.

Steven

14 years of experience
425 reviews
Steven
14 years of experience
Lincoln Continental V8-4.6L - Fuel Pump - Surprise, Arizona
Steven does a good job, answers questions, and worked well with me on schedule.

Excellent Rating

(75)

Rating Summary
69
3
0
0
3
69
3
0
0
3
Number of Lincoln Continental services completed
825+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Lincoln MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0090 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit
P0090 code definition A P0090 diagnostic trouble code is referencing an issue with the fuel pressure regulator circuit. This code is similar...
How to Replace a Car Surge Tank Hose
Replacing a surge tank hose involves working on the coolant system, which can burn you when the engine is hot. Stay safe by waiting for it to cool.
B1972 OBD-II Trouble Code: Passenger Rear Seat Up Switch Circuit Short to Battery
B1972 means there is a circuit failure in a passenger rear seat up switch, likely due to damaged electrical components or a faulty switch.

Cylinder number 4 is misfiring black dry carbon on spark plug code P0304

Hi there. It would appear you have covered all the bases replacing components for your P0304 (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0303-obd-ii-trouble-code-cylinder-3-misfire-detected-by-spencer-clayton) engine misfire. As you already know, replacing components can be expensive and time consuming without resolution. Assuming the engine is mechanically sound, good...

Massive hesitation between 1-2 shifting and nearly dies occassionally at stop.

Hi there. It seems that the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve is stuck and not allowing the engine to run good causing the engine to hesitate, especially when shifting. Take the EGR off and clean it. Then put it back...

I have a 2003 Nissan Altima and it running bad and when it stops or is idle it will some time cut off.

The suggestion that it sounds like a diesel is a little scary. before you try anything else, be sure to check the engine oil. After that, check under the hood for vacuum lines or any other air fittings that may...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com