Hyundai Palisade Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(3)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(3)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Hyundai Palisade Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2021 Hyundai PalisadeV6-3.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2022 Hyundai PalisadeV6-3.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2020 Hyundai PalisadeV6-3.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example Hyundai Palisade Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Hyundai mechanics

Real customer reviews from Hyundai owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(3)

Rating Summary
2
1
0
0
0
2
1
0
0
0

Adrian

9 years of experience
7 reviews
Adrian
9 years of experience
Hyundai Palisade V6-3.8L - Oil Change - Reston, Virginia
Great experience with oil change.

Paul

23 years of experience
326 reviews
Paul
23 years of experience
Hyundai Palisade V6-3.8L - Oil Change - Pineville, North Carolina
Paul was on time, professional and efficient.

Ben

41 years of experience
1452 reviews
Ben
41 years of experience
Hyundai Elantra L4-2.0L - Loud noise is coming from rear brakes - Houston, Texas
Great experience, mr Ben is a great mechanic, knowledgeable, knows whats he's doing, would recommend

Eliseo

12 years of experience
239 reviews
Eliseo
12 years of experience
Hyundai Elantra L4-2.0L - Loud noise is coming from rear brakes - Conroe, Texas
Very knowledgeable and professional. Arrived early find the problem quickly. Excellent job!

Excellent Rating

(3)

Rating Summary
2
1
0
0
0
2
1
0
0
0
Number of Hyundai Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection services completed
33+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Hyundai MECHANICS
1300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

The Guide to Right-of-Way Laws in Kansas
Right-of-way Right-of-way laws in Kansas work to make traffic flow safely and smoothly and although they are entrenched in statute, they are really just common sense. If you are thinking about what you should do when dealing with other motorists,...
P2059 OBD-II Trouble Code: Reductant Injection Air Pump Control Circuit/Open
P2059 P2059 code definition Reductant Injection Air Pump Control Circuit/Open What the P2059 code means P2059 is an OBD-II generic code indicating that the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects that the reductant injection air pump control circuit has an open...
How to Replace a Suspension Air Bag
Air ride suspension systems use air bags to support the weight of trucks, SUVs, and large sedans. Suspension air bags may wear out by 100,000 miles.

Fuel or ignition problem.

If your complaint is a crank no start, it is likely that you have ignition problems. It could also be the fuel injection relay. The most likely cause for your no start is an ignition module in the distributor assembly....

Very hard to start vehicle

Hello. This code is also related to the catalytic converter (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/catalytic-converter-replacement) not working properly. This can also happen when the ground wires connected to the O2 sensors (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/oxygen-sensor-replacement) are not properly hooked up causing them to send erroneous info to...

2012 Chevy Cruze won’t start crank but won’t start jumped the started and it started right up

Hi Dominic. Thanks for contacting us tonight. Since your ignition switch was damaged, you should probably replace this first, as not only is this the likely source of your problem, but it represents an electrical safety issue and maybe a...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com