BMW 650i xDrive Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(7,430)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(7,430)

Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection Service

How much does a Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 650i xDrive Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2017 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
2013 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.72 - $130.77
2015 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.72 - $130.77
2012 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.68 - $130.70
2016 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.75 - $130.82
2014 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$119.72 - $130.77
2018 BMW 650i xDriveV8-4.4L TurboService typeTemperature gauge is maxed out InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$130.87 - $135.28
Show example BMW 650i xDrive Temperature gauge is maxed out Inspection prices

Your car’s engine needs to maintain the right operating temperature. As it runs, it creates immense amounts of heat. Coolant is circulated through the engine to absorb heat, and then it goes back to the radiator, where the radiator fan helps wick away the collected heat. Once cooled, the coolant is then sent back into the engine to do it all again. This should keep your engine in the normal operating temperature range, but if your temperature gauge is maxed out, there could be something seriously wrong.

How this system works:

The temperature gauge in your dash is connected to the car’s computer and from there to a temperature sensor on the engine block. The sensor measures the temperature of your car’s coolant (it uses resistance, but the actual resistance values can vary drastically from one automaker to another, and from one model to another).

The information read by the sensor is sent to the car’s computer, which adjusts the temperature gauge and also plays a role in the cooling system. Depending on the temperature level, the radiator fan will cycle on and off. As the temperature of your coolant rises, the needle in your temperature gauge should rise, moving from cold to normal. However, it may move all the way to hot in some cases.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Low Coolant: The first suspected cause of your temperature gauge maxing out is low coolant. If this occurs, your engine can overheat, and serious damage can result, up to and including cracking the block. However, if the engine isn’t actually hot (the temp gauge is maxed out but there’s no abnormal levels of heat from the engine), this isn’t the problem.

  • Broken Temp Gauge: If the temperature gauge is maxed out but the engine isn’t actually hot, then the problem may be a broken temperature gauge. The needle may be stuck in the hot range (this can happen after overheating the engine), or a stepper gear in the gauge may be damaged.

  • Failed Temp Sensor: If the temperature sensor on your engine block has failed, it may not send any information to the system, or it may send an erroneous signal, causing the gauge to rise without any actual overheating. It’s also possible that the sensor is shorting.

  • Failed Thermostat: If your car’s thermostat sticks in the closed position, coolant will not fully cycle through the engine, and it will begin to overheat. Your temperature gauge will rise quickly, particularly if it is very warm outside.

  • Cooling Fan Motor Failure: If the motor for your radiator cooling fan fails, it will not cycle on. This reduces the amount of airflow over the radiator, meaning that much of the heat is retained by the coolant, and it will not be able to absorb more from the engine.

  • Bad Fan Switch: Another reason your radiator fan might not be working is a bad fan switch. This switch controls the cycling of your radiator fan(s), and if it fails, it can cause overheating.

  • Air in System after Coolant Service: If you’ve recently had your engine coolant drained and refilled, it’s possible there’s air in the system. Air bubbles can form and block coolant from cycling through the engine, causing it to overheat.

What to expect:

A professionally trained mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect your car’s temperature gauge and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect the coolant level of your vehicle, as well as the temperature sensor and other components in order to determine the cause of the gauge maxing out. It may be necessary to test drive the vehicle and verify if the engine is actually overheating, or if the problem lies with the sensor or the gauge.

How important is this service?

If your car is actually overheating, it’s a very serious problem that could quickly lead to engine-killing damage. Even if the problem is just a malfunctioning sensor or gauge, the issue is still serious, as you will have no means of observing the actual temperature of your engine coolant. One of our professional mechanics can inspect and repair your system.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(7,430)

Rating Summary
6,938
220
61
51
160
6,938
220
61
51
160

Sayeed

18 years of experience
82 reviews
Sayeed
18 years of experience
BMW 650i xDrive V8-4.4L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Great Neck, New York
Since I could not visit the car in person, I wanted to have someone with automotive experience check out the vehicle and all its systems. Sayeed was very a knowledgeable and courteous professional. He covered all the bases and answered my multitude of questions about the various components. Money well spent toward feeling reassured about the vehicle's true condition.

Tung

17 years of experience
310 reviews
Tung
17 years of experience
BMW 650i xDrive V8-4.4L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Powder Springs, Georgia
Great service!!!

Jeremy

21 years of experience
802 reviews
Jeremy
21 years of experience
BMW 328i L6-3.0L - Radiator - Boynton Beach, Florida
Always on time and legit!!!

TJ

27 years of experience
362 reviews
TJ
27 years of experience
BMW 535i xDrive L6-3.0L Turbo - Check Engine Light is on - North Port, Florida
great professional, arrived at the right time.

Excellent Rating

(7,430)

Rating Summary
6,938
220
61
51
160
6,938
220
61
51
160
Number of BMW services completed
81730+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1200+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Buy a Good Quality Bumper
The The bumper acts as a guard between other objects and your front end. While it doesn’t provide much in the way of passenger safety, it does absorb some impact and put a barrier between the object you hit (or...
P0114 OBD-II Trouble Code: IAT Sensor Circuit Intermittent Input Problem
P0114 P0114 code definition Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit intermittent input problem What the P0114 code means P0114 is the OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has recorded the IAT sensor input intermittently. What causes the...
How to Prepare for the Montana Driver’s Written Test
Although Although you might be rearing to get out on the road and drive, you have to first make sure you pass the Montana driver’s written test at the Motor Vehicle Division. This written test will show the state that...

I decided to remove my intake manifold to clean it and remove the rear motor

Hello. The variable intake should reset once you put everything back together and run the engine. If the intake flaps are stuck, then there may be debris stuck in them from carbon build up, or the motors may have been...

Nut holding stabilizer arm to rear strut won't come off ( it just spins with the bolt ).

Hello. This is where all those DIY skills come into play. This scenario has baffled every car technician at some point in their career, from new to Master Mechanic. What is required is to use whatever is at hand to...

Car won't accelerate in drive but will in 1 or 2 slowly and it will accelerate in reverse. ll in 1, 2, and drive?

It is possible that you could be having internal transmission issues. These issues could be mechanical (if something is bent or broken), electrical ( a shorted wire or disconnected circuit), or hydraulic (a restriction in fluid flow). I would recommend...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com