BMW 650i xDrive Gran Coupe Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(6,828)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(6,828)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 650i xDrive Gran Coupe Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2013 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
2016 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2019 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2015 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
2018 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2017 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2014 BMW 650i xDrive Gran CoupeV8-4.4L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
Show example BMW 650i xDrive Gran Coupe Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(6,828)

Rating Summary
6,369
206
60
45
148
6,369
206
60
45
148

Andrew

11 years of experience
354 reviews
Andrew
11 years of experience
BMW 650i xDrive Gran Coupe V8-4.4L Turbo - Check Engine Light is on - Laurel, Maryland
Andrew is knowledgeable and identified the problem quickly and fixed it. Thank you.

Bereketeab

7 years of experience
110 reviews
Bereketeab
7 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-3.0L - Spark Plug Replacement - Sacramento, California
Very professional and polite!

Attila

19 years of experience
963 reviews
Attila
19 years of experience
BMW 328i L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Jersey City, New Jersey
Attila was great - awesome mechanic - very knowledgeable- highly recommend

Dale

25 years of experience
9 reviews
Dale
25 years of experience
BMW 750Li V8-4.8L - Alternator - Huntersville, North Carolina
Very professional al d knowledgeable about my BMW. I will call Dale ALL the time!!!!!!

Excellent Rating

(6,828)

Rating Summary
6,369
206
60
45
148
6,369
206
60
45
148
Number of BMW services completed
75108+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How Long Does a Battery Cable Last?
Transferring Transferring the current from the battery to the starter and alternator is the job of the battery cables. Every time you try to start your car, the battery cables will have to deliver the power needed to fire off...
Why You Should Get ASE Certified
Automotive technician jobs pay more and have more security if you're ASE certified. Invest in your career as a mechanic with better credentials.
B2104 OBD-II Trouble Code: Door Passenger Key Cylinder Switch Failure
B2104 trouble code means there's a failure in the passenger door key cylinder switch, caused by a failed component in the switch.

dash and console lights out - 2005 Chevy Cobalt

Try to adjust the dashboard light's rheostat to see if it is turned all the way dim in such a way that you cannot see the lights. If the rheostat is turned up and it the lights are still not...

Where and how do I check the transmission fluid? 2007 Toyota Tundra

Hi there - there is an oil port on the side of the transmission case where oil level can be checked. Requires getting the truck up on a lift. There is a specific process (and fluid temperature) for this check,...

RPM revs too high but low acceleration - Answer only if you can list out culprits & rule out some as well looking at the case.

If you are not getting any check engine light then you do not need to change any sensors. It sounds like your clutch is slipping and may need to be replaced. A slipping clutch will cause the engine to rev...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com