BMW 228i Gran Coupe Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(6,828)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(6,828)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 228i Gran Coupe Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2022 BMW 228i Gran CoupeL4-2.0L TurboService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
Show example BMW 228i Gran Coupe Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(6,828)

Rating Summary
6,369
206
60
45
148
6,369
206
60
45
148

Michael

16 years of experience
606 reviews
Michael
16 years of experience
BMW 328i L6-3.0L - Warning Light is on - Roswell, Georgia
VERY KNOWLEGABLE AND VERY NICE! I WOULD TRUST HIM WITH ANY CAR. GREAT MECHANIC!

Joseph

27 years of experience
578 reviews
Joseph
27 years of experience
BMW X3 L6-3.0L - Brake Rotor/Disc Replacement (Rear) - Katy, Texas
outstanding

Mazyar

8 years of experience
497 reviews
Mazyar
8 years of experience
BMW 530i L6-3.0L - Starter - Atlanta, Georgia
Mark was timely, attentive and thorough. I’d have no hesitation engaging him again.

Whitney

39 years of experience
783 reviews
Whitney
39 years of experience
BMW 325i L6-2.5L - Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement - San Jose, California
I liked Whitney because he showed me all the things that he put in and took out of my car, and explained how things work. This level of transparency really put me at ease.

Excellent Rating

(6,828)

Rating Summary
6,369
206
60
45
148
6,369
206
60
45
148
Number of BMW services completed
75108+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

The Best Used Cars to Buy If You're a Personal Trainer
As As a personal trainer, you either operate out of a gym, or you go to your clients. Either way, you probably don’t have to haul any more gear than what fits into your gym bag, so your main focus...
How to Clean Your Car With Household Items
Keeping your car clean can be a challenge. Baking soda, vinegar, and dish soap are common household items you can use to wash your car inside and out.
How to Ship a Car From Japan
There are some very different, unique vehicles in Japan that aren’t offered in the American marketplace. There are: Compact trucks (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/5-essential-things-to-know-before-buying-a-truck) Versatile SUVs Performance sports cars Luxury sedans You may want to drive something that is one-of-a-kind in your area...

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee dies while driving

A faulty idle air control valve would cause the exact issues you describe. The idle air control valve will be located right next to the throttle body inlet. The idle air control valve controls the idle speed of the engine....

The car idles and stalls in cold weather conditions only, or if i don't heat it up all the way in cold weather conditions.

Hello there. Many common faults will cause your 2012 Mazda 3 to idle poorly and stall in cold weather. The most common faults would be the coolant temperature sensor (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/coolant-temperature-switch-sensor-replacement), stuck open thermostat (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/thermostat-replacement), radiator (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/radiator-replacement), water pump (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/water-pump-replacement), MAF...

Runs for a little bit and dies

In order to isolate the problem you should have the fuel pressure monitored with a pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel rail. As the engine is running monitor fuel pressure when it stalls out to see if pressure drops...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com