Audi A5 Sportback Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,448)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,448)

Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection Service

How much does a Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi A5 Sportback Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2022 Audi A5 SportbackL4-2.0L Turbo HybridService typeBrake fluid is black or brown InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2018 Audi A5 SportbackL4-2.0L TurboService typeBrake fluid is black or brown InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2020 Audi A5 SportbackL4-2.0L TurboService typeBrake fluid is black or brown InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
2019 Audi A5 SportbackL4-2.0L TurboService typeBrake fluid is black or brown InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2021 Audi A5 SportbackL4-2.0L Turbo HybridService typeBrake fluid is black or brown InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
Show example Audi A5 Sportback Brake fluid is black or brown Inspection prices

Your car requires several different fluids in order to operate. Engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and coolant are all essential. Another important one is brake fluid. Like other fluids, your brake fluid will deteriorate over time and eventually need to be replaced with a brake system flush. If you’ve noticed that your brake fluid appears black or brown, it’s well past time for a service.

How this system works:

Your brakes are operated by fluid pressure. The master cylinder and brake booster work to create pressure, which is then directed to the moving parts of the system (the calipers and shoe actuators). In a normal system, the brake fluid is clear or very light gold in color. This is true whether your car requires DOT 3, 4 or 5 brake fluid.

Brake fluid is held in the master cylinder reservoir, but it is also stored in the brake lines that run from the master cylinder to each wheel. You have two types of brake lines – steel and rubber. Over time and through normal use, brake fluid becomes contaminated. This happens on all vehicles, even brand new ones.

It requires only a couple of years for the fluid to build up enough contaminants that the color begins to change. It will darken over time, changing from clear/golden to a darker gold. In severe situations, your brake fluid may appear to be brown, or even black (think used engine oil).

It’s important that your brake fluid is changed regularly, before it turns brown or black. Very dark colors indicate that your fluid has collected a significant amount of contamination, and might have absorbed moisture, as well. This reduces the system’s ability to build pressure, which compromises your braking performance. You may have noticed that your brake pedal feels softer, or spongy. In serious situations, you may have to pump the pedal a couple of times for it to work properly.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Normal Aging Gone to the Extreme: The most common reason that brake fluid appears brown or black is that normal aging has gone unchecked (you haven’t had the fluid changed in too long). Contaminants collect in the fluid, darkening the color and reducing its ability to work.

  • Moisture Contamination: Brake fluid can absorb moisture from the surrounding air. This generally occurs by rubber brake lines allowing moisture to seep in. When moisture accumulates in brake fluid, it causes problems in a couple of ways. Water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid, and can reach very high temperatures at the calipers and drums. This causes the water to flash boil into steam, causing the brake fluid to darken, but also creating air in the lines. This can cause a soft pedal, or even cause you to have to pump the brake pedal to get the system to work properly.

  • Deteriorating Rubber Lines: The rubber brake lines on your car will eventually deteriorate and need to be replaced. Brake fluid is also corrosive, and while the lines are designed to withstand that corrosion, they’ll eventually begin to break down. Microscopic pieces of rubber and chemicals leaching out of the lines into the fluid will also cause it to darken.

  • Normal Heating: Brake fluid is heated by contact with the calipers, and this heat creates a chemical change in the fluid, adding to the darkening created by moisture and other types of contamination.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and visually inspect your brake fluid’s condition, the master cylinder and the rest of the system to determine if the problem is simply due to normal age and wear/tear. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect the master cylinder, lines and other brake system components. The mechanic will also determine how long it has been since your brake fluid was last changed, and may need to perform a brake fluid flush to remove the contaminated, old fluid and replace it with fresh, clean fluid.

How important is this service?

Brake fluid darkens as it ages – it’s natural, and due to normal contamination that occurs in all brake systems. However, it must be changed regularly, or you risk reduced braking performance and the deterioration or damage of other brake system components. One of our professional mechanics can inspect your system, change your fluid, and ensure that you enjoy the safety you deserve on the road.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,448)

Rating Summary
2,271
87
19
12
59
2,271
87
19
12
59

Charles

4 years of experience
116 reviews
Charles
4 years of experience
Audi A5 Sportback L4-2.0L Turbo - Battery - Hendersonville, Tennessee
Charles did an outstanding job. He did the change out in my battery, was very respectful of my vehicle, very neat and very personable. Well done. Great experience!!!

Simon

27 years of experience
304 reviews
Simon
27 years of experience
Audi A3 L4-1.8L Turbo - Stabilizer Bar Links Replacement (Rear) - Arlington, Virginia
Simon is a very reliable mechanic and I would recommend him to anyone.

James

30 years of experience
916 reviews
James
30 years of experience
Audi A4 Quattro L4-2.0L Turbo - AC is not working - Orlando, Florida
Excellent!

Peter

28 years of experience
531 reviews
Peter
28 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-2.0L Turbo - Car is not starting Inspection - Sherman Oaks, California
Friendly, professional, and super knowledgable.

Excellent Rating

(2,448)

Rating Summary
2,271
87
19
12
59
2,271
87
19
12
59
Number of Audi services completed
26928+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0023 OBD-II Trouble Code: Camshaft Position B - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0023 P0023 code definition Camshaft Position B - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) What the P0023 code means P0023 is the OBD-II generic code indicating the Engine Control Module (ECM) has determined that the bank 2 exhaust camshaft Oil Control Valve...
P0669 OBD-II Trouble Code: PCM/ECM/TCM Internal Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0669 means that the TCM has detected a malfunction in the internal temperature sensor circuit due to a faulty control module or shorted wiring.
P1102 OBD-II Trouble Code: Mass Airflow Sensor in Range But Lower Than Expected
P1102 means the mass airflow sensor is not working properly, likely due to a bad connection in the sensor, an air leak, or a faulty sensor.

Abs, brake lights are on, and the check engine light is on. Code PO500 came up. I changed our speed sensor on the back axle as well.

There could be a wiring issue with the vehicle speed sensor from the computer to the speed sensor pigtail. If the wiring is good, then the PCM may not correctly configured for the actual tire size on the vehicle. If...

When I press on the gas the tires sound like their gonna fall off while I'm deiving

The required repair will depend on whether the vibration is suspension related versus engine related. If the tires are vibrating, there might be a wheel imbalance, tire defect, or suspension fault. If it is the engine vibrating, typically the cause...

My air won't blow

I would recommend a suspension inspection (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/brakes-steering-and-suspension-inspection) to determine what has happened after the pot hole impact. More than likely your fan is shorted to power and the impact is unrelated but the inspection should reveal the true issue. Maybe...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com